The way we dress is always changing. Every year we come up with new ways to look even more stylish, and we are all on board for it! Suits themselves have seen major adjustments over the recent years, and one of the more common debates sparked among seasoned suit-wearers is where the coat armholes should be.
Back in the 1960s, suits were designed with lower armholes. This is mostly owing to the fact that tailors didn’t have the resources or the time to be implementing new designs. So they went with the easier option of stitching the suit with lower armholes. This continued for many decades until we came to the era where tailored suit fittings became commonplace.
What Is The Difference Between High And Low Coat Armholes?
When a coat has low armholes, this means that the armhole is larger and reaches further down the body of the jacket. While this may be easier to stitch, the overall look is hampered by the way the armholes drag downwards. There is a noticeable difference compared to other suits and ends up looking cheap and hastily made.
It doesn’t just ruin the look of the top half of the coat. Because of how distinct it is, it also throws off the balance and looks of the rest of the jacket. The coat will appear longer and wider than it is, the lapel will be too big and will balloon up when you lean forward, and you will have excess fabric under your arms that makes the coat look huge when you walk.
With high coat armholes, these problems are not apparent and the suit will look tailored to fit your body. It gives you a more refined and professional look with relatively small armholes that wrap around perfectly instead of giving you around, bunched-up look.
Higher armholes not only make the suit look better on you, but it feels better as well. The adjustment to the armholes will result in the coat being snugger and more fitted to your body. You won’t feel any fabric bunching up anywhere as the coat will be precisely tailored and you won’t have any “loose” fabric (i.e. under your arms). When a suit bunches up often it tends to wear down much faster, meaning you won’t be able to wear it many times.
With high armholes, the suit can be a bit more difficult to put on as it is usually tighter. But, once set in place, you will have a very little problem with movement and you’ll find that it is possible to wear them all day long with no comfort issues.
While you may not be able to identify how high the armholes should be, an experienced tailor will be able to recommend a fit for you. They understand that the armhole height plays a role in both the look and feel of the jacket.
The height will also depend on your job or what you need the jacket for. If you require more movement (i.e if you’re a violin player), then the armholes will have to be cut slightly differently to a jacket for someone who is a businessman.
As a general rule, here’s how you can check if your armhole is too big and not well-fitted. Put on the completed jacket and place your fingers under your armpit. Ideally, you want at least two or three-finger spaces in between your armpit and the bottom of the armhole. Anything more means that the armhole is too low and too big.
Most people cannot find the perfect fit from off-the-rack coats. This is because these jackets are made with a “general size” in mind and do not account for the varying body types that humans have.
Low armholes are common for off-the-rack coats, so if you want a suit that is modern, stylish, and well-fitted, your best option would be to purchase a bespoke suit. A bespoke tailor will note down all the proper measurements and then adjust them based on your requirements and usage. This is the only way to get a proper fit that allows you free movement of your body, instead of being hindered by the problems caused by regular jackets.
If you want to find out more, get in touch with our team of professionals today. We’ll discuss your requirements and work with you to create the perfect suit for any – and all – occasions.