Elements of a Custom Suit

Buying a suit is one thing; buying a custom suit is quite another. There are details and options in the world of custom suits that would never be addressed in traditional retail environments. We make it a point to educate each client we work with on the finer points and meanings portrayed through line and design, so we still recommend scheduling a complimentary consultation, but here is some background to give you a starting foundation to think from.

We’ll go over the most common design components we offer on each part of a suit. As you read, remember that anything you see can be achieved when working with BBespoke. More importantly, if you don’t see something here, but you’d like to try on your own garment, contact us. 

Custom Suit Jackets

The focal point of any suit is its jacket. Derived from robes worn by wealthy British aristocrats, the best ones have clean lines that make a man look handsome, strong, reliable, credible, successful, and trustworthy. The worst ones do the opposite. The design options we discuss with most clients are:

  • Button Stance
  • Lapels: Notch, peak, and shawl
  • Vents
  • Upper & lower pockets
  • Lining
  • Buttons
  • Stitching colors

What is the Right Length for a Man’s Suit Coat?

This is a much harder element to nail precisely than a few years ago. Today, suit coat and sport coat styles are becoming trimmer and shorter.

For a more traditional style, your suit coat should fall around the middle of the seat of your trousers, and the flare should be very subtle. If you’re noticing a more skirt-like flare, it’s likely your coat is too short. If it falls past your buttocks or hands when standing, it’s too long.

While classic, full-length suit coats are still the norm, we’re seeing more of these modern trim cuts pop up in office attire. You be the judge of whether it’s the right fit for you and, not unimportant, for your office.

Custom-Made Pants / Trousers

Though they don’t get the attention that suit jackets do, trousers form a crucial part of the tailored ensemble. They seem simple, but there are still plenty of details that make up a cool pair of custom pants, such as:

  • Fronts: pleated or plain
  • Bottoms: cuffed or plain
  • Waistband: belt loops, side fasteners, or none at all
  • Front pockets
  • Back pockets

How Suit Trousers Should Fit

A big problem with off-the-rack men’s suits is that we buy the suit based on the coat and hope the tailor can pull a rabbit out of the hat with the pants.

While pants should fit smoothly across your legs and buttocks, the drape shouldn’t form sagging wrinkles below the seat; an indication they’re too baggy. If the seat is too tight, you’ll typically see horizontal wrinkles under the buttocks.

While a baggy pair of trousers can be altered to a certain extent, the more oversized they are, the more likely the pockets will be distorted in the alteration process. And, there isn’t much a tailor can do if your pants are too tight.

The hem of your pants should fall just on the top of your shoes, with a slight crease where they hit. The back of the pants should fall no further than the top of the heel of your shoes.

Alternatively, falling in line with the trim look of the times, some men are shaking things up with slimmer fits and shorter lengths. It can be a challenging look to pull off, but when done correctly, it can fit nicely at the office.

Custom Vests For Men

Most suits are two-piece suits, meaning they are made of a matching jacket and trousers. Three-piece suits, on the other hand, also include a vest (known in British English as a “waistcoat”).

The beauty of a vest is the versatility it lends a suit. When part of a three-piece ensemble, it comprises the most elegant suit of armor you can wear. When you’re at an event and you start getting warm, you can remove your jacket and still appear “dressed.” Also, vests have their own design elements, such as:

  • Lining
  • Buttons
  • Lapels
  • Pockets

Custom Bespoke Suits in NYC, NJ, & Anywhere In The U.S

At BBespoke, personal service is our specialty and we have many ways to serve you in NJ and NYC Area.  Our custom tuxedo, suit, and tailoring services go far beyond just the material itself.  

Our owner, Bijan Zamanian, is personally involved with every new client to make sure nothing is left to chance.  We will even come to your place at home or office in New Jersey or New York (Consultations by video outside of our NJ & NYC travel area).

Book an appointment online today. You’ll be fitted so that your new suit has the best look and feel you can buy.

5 Things You Should Know Before Buying A Custom Suit

Whether you’re a professional or a casual suit wearer, every wardrobe should contain a suit or two – both for everyday/office wear and a tailored suit for dressier events. For work, you could simply get a suit off the rack and it should serve its purpose. However, a bespoke suit tailored exactly to your size is a necessity to stand out from the crowd and to create a unique look specific to your style.

A bespoke suit is completely custom and handmade. It is not as simple as buying a suit from a store. You will have to go in for many fittings as the tailor will want to make it as perfect as possible for your body shape. In this regard, you can’t do better than a bespoke suit which has the power to increase your confidence just by wearing it.

Still Life of Tailor's Shop with Tools of the Trade and Cloth

Before you go in search of a custom suit, there are a few things you need to consider. Below, we will be highlighting some important information you need to know before you purchase a bespoke suit.

5 Things You Should Know

  1. Understand your budget – Custom suits are more expensive than your regular suits. Off-the-rack suits are mass-produced using machinery according to general body size and so the cost of tailoring the suit is much lower. A bespoke suit, on the other hand, is handcrafted meaning that one tailor or a group of them have worked on the measuring, stitching, lining, and padding of the suit. A lot more time and effort is spent on tailoring just one suit, and this is reflected in the price.

If you can determine the budget early on, the tailor will be able to tell you what kind of suit you can expect for that price. If not, you may be disappointed with the final result.

  1. Choose the best fabric – The fabric makes the suit. Your entire suit’s look and feel will be determined by the fabric you end up using. Therefore, it is important to make this decision before you start work on the suit. Any fabric that is synthetically made should be avoided as it won’t last very long and will not be as comfortable.

You should also factor in other conditions such as whether or not you sweat a lot. If you do, you need to choose a fabric that is light so the suit can breathe more easily such as cotton or linen. Wool is another all-around great choice that you can wear at any time, in any climate. If you live in an area that is cold, then you will need thicker materials such as flannel or tweed for comfort. For more insight, you can ask your tailor directly and get their recommendation based on your budget.

  1. Make sure you have the body you want before purchasing – Bespoke suits are made exactly according to your body size. Once it is completely tailored, it is a difficult process to alter again. Bespoke suits are tailored to fit you for years to come so you need to ensure that you’re in the shape you want to be before you visit the store.

If you’re in the process of losing weight, you should ideally wait until you have reached your target weight. Think of it this way, at the end of your fitness journey, you will have an expensive custom fit suit ready for you that will make you look dashing with all that lost weight.

  1. You will need to take precise measurements for every part of your body – Because of the process of bespoke tailoring, you should expect the body measurements process to take quite some time. It is also an opportunity for you to judge the competency of the tailor you have approached. If your tailor does a quick job of measuring with no real communication, you should probably get out of there and find another tailor.

Typically, a good tailor would take more than 30 different measurements including height, waist, inseam, sleeves, chest size, and more. You should also make sure your tailor is not rushing the job as any mistakes will take the tailoring process much longer.

  1. Understand that this is not a quick tailoring job – If you need a suit stitched quickly for an upcoming event, then you should probably not make it a bespoke suit. Unlike a normally stitched suit which can take about a week, a custom suit can take anywhere between 3 weeks to 2 months to complete. You will need to be patient to get that perfect fitting suit.

If you need further assistance or advice, get in touch with our team today!