Elements of a Custom Suit

Buying a suit is one thing; buying a custom suit is quite another. There are details and options in the world of custom suits that would never be addressed in traditional retail environments. We make it a point to educate each client we work with on the finer points and meanings portrayed through line and design, so we still recommend scheduling a complimentary consultation, but here is some background to give you a starting foundation to think from.

We’ll go over the most common design components we offer on each part of a suit. As you read, remember that anything you see can be achieved when working with BBespoke. More importantly, if you don’t see something here, but you’d like to try on your own garment, contact us. 

Custom Suit Jackets

The focal point of any suit is its jacket. Derived from robes worn by wealthy British aristocrats, the best ones have clean lines that make a man look handsome, strong, reliable, credible, successful, and trustworthy. The worst ones do the opposite. The design options we discuss with most clients are:

  • Button Stance
  • Lapels: Notch, peak, and shawl
  • Vents
  • Upper & lower pockets
  • Lining
  • Buttons
  • Stitching colors

What is the Right Length for a Man’s Suit Coat?

This is a much harder element to nail precisely than a few years ago. Today, suit coat and sport coat styles are becoming trimmer and shorter.

For a more traditional style, your suit coat should fall around the middle of the seat of your trousers, and the flare should be very subtle. If you’re noticing a more skirt-like flare, it’s likely your coat is too short. If it falls past your buttocks or hands when standing, it’s too long.

While classic, full-length suit coats are still the norm, we’re seeing more of these modern trim cuts pop up in office attire. You be the judge of whether it’s the right fit for you and, not unimportant, for your office.

Custom-Made Pants / Trousers

Though they don’t get the attention that suit jackets do, trousers form a crucial part of the tailored ensemble. They seem simple, but there are still plenty of details that make up a cool pair of custom pants, such as:

  • Fronts: pleated or plain
  • Bottoms: cuffed or plain
  • Waistband: belt loops, side fasteners, or none at all
  • Front pockets
  • Back pockets

How Suit Trousers Should Fit

A big problem with off-the-rack men’s suits is that we buy the suit based on the coat and hope the tailor can pull a rabbit out of the hat with the pants.

While pants should fit smoothly across your legs and buttocks, the drape shouldn’t form sagging wrinkles below the seat; an indication they’re too baggy. If the seat is too tight, you’ll typically see horizontal wrinkles under the buttocks.

While a baggy pair of trousers can be altered to a certain extent, the more oversized they are, the more likely the pockets will be distorted in the alteration process. And, there isn’t much a tailor can do if your pants are too tight.

The hem of your pants should fall just on the top of your shoes, with a slight crease where they hit. The back of the pants should fall no further than the top of the heel of your shoes.

Alternatively, falling in line with the trim look of the times, some men are shaking things up with slimmer fits and shorter lengths. It can be a challenging look to pull off, but when done correctly, it can fit nicely at the office.

Custom Vests For Men

Most suits are two-piece suits, meaning they are made of a matching jacket and trousers. Three-piece suits, on the other hand, also include a vest (known in British English as a “waistcoat”).

The beauty of a vest is the versatility it lends a suit. When part of a three-piece ensemble, it comprises the most elegant suit of armor you can wear. When you’re at an event and you start getting warm, you can remove your jacket and still appear “dressed.” Also, vests have their own design elements, such as:

  • Lining
  • Buttons
  • Lapels
  • Pockets

Custom Bespoke Suits in NYC, NJ, & Anywhere In The U.S

At BBespoke, personal service is our specialty and we have many ways to serve you in NJ and NYC Area.  Our custom tuxedo, suit, and tailoring services go far beyond just the material itself.  

Our owner, Bijan Zamanian, is personally involved with every new client to make sure nothing is left to chance.  We will even come to your place at home or office in New Jersey or New York (Consultations by video outside of our NJ & NYC travel area).

Book an appointment online today. You’ll be fitted so that your new suit has the best look and feel you can buy.