How a Suit Should Fit

Man standing in front of mirror looking at custom suit

A look into the key checkpoints to make sure your suit looks sharp. Too many people fall into the trap of assuming they know their size and as long as they stick to that, the suit will fit. If only it were that simple! Suits vary in cut, construction, and style, and unfortunately, it’s not quite as easy as one rule for every body shape! This can make finding the right suit for you pretty tricky!

That’s why BBespoke is here to take the hassle of finding that perfectly fitting garment by making them to your specific measurements with meticulous attention to detail.

In the meantime, here’s the 101 on checking that all-important fit of your suit. – Starting with the Jacket.

Shoulder Line

Suit shoulder finishes come in a range of finishes, from padded, to soft to La Spalla Camicia. Whatever your preferred option, the key is the fit. The end of the shoulder pad should finish neatly in line with the end of your body’s shoulder. This will allow the arm to fill out the top of the sleeve which should drape smoothly in a straight line. Too tight and the arm will stretch the top of the sleeve, too big and the shoulders will hang unnaturally with an unsightly hole appearing in the void.

Lapels

Lapels should sit flat against the chest. A gap between the chest and the lapels indicates the jacket is too big. If the chest panels are too small, the lapels will bow. The temptation of many is to go too tight – remember, tight is not always right!

Sleeve & Jacket Length

A couple of schools of thought are available on these very personal preferences. When it comes to sleeves, as a general rule, always flash a bit of your shirt cuff when your arms are in a relaxed position – ideally about an inch. A touch of color beneath the end of the jacket cuff always helps sharpen your look.

On jacket lengths, British traditionalists tend towards a long finish; clenching the fist and lining up the jacket with the knuckles gives a preferred length. This works particularly well with a more traditionally styled suit. The Italians tend towards a much shorter length teamed with a slimmer suit giving a more elegant line to the leg. As a general rule, by today’s standards, look to line up the bottom of the jacket with the bottom of the crotch of your trousers, with enough length in the back to just about cover your trouser seat – with this rule, you won’t go wrong!

Closure

You should always be able to button your jacket. Ideally, look for a gap of an inch to an inch and a half from the belly to the closure. Too tight and the button will pull and create an unsightly crease in the shape of an X in the front of the jacket. Too loose and your jacket will lose shape and silhouette. You could also be accused of smuggling. The button should ideally sit around the widest part of your body to allow the rest of the jacket to fall naturally into place.

Custom Bespoke Suits in NYC, NJ, & Anywhere In The U.S

At BBespoke, personal service is our specialty and we have many ways to serve you in NJ and NYC areas.  Our custom tuxedo, suit, and tailoring services go far beyond just the material itself.  

Our owner, Bijan Zamanian, is personally involved with every new client to make sure nothing is left to chance.  We will even come to your place at home or office in New Jersey or New York (Consultations by video outside of our NJ & NYC travel area).

Book an appointment online today. You’ll be fitted so that your new suit has the best look and feel you can buy.

2022 Summer Wedding Colors

While it might seem like wedding dress trends grab all the attention, let’s not overlook the fresh, new looks coming onto the groom’s wedding attire scene. Grooms, groomsmen, and even groomsmaids are no longer expected to play it safe with fashion, and instead, have endless attire options to fully customize their look. 

Curious to know what guys will be wearing down the aisle in 2022? Read on to learn about the on-trend colors being chosen for their big day! 

Earth Tones and Soft Neutrals

Outdoor wedding venues are growing in popularity, and with that, comes new trends in groom attire. Couples are now opting to trade-in wedding halls for the great outdoors, and what better way to compliment your surroundings than with rich tonalities of browns and tans, off-white/bone, and olive green.

While the classic black tux will forever stand the test of time, neutrals are definitely on the rise. The overall wedding aesthetic trend is chic and minimalistic through the use of metallics, clean lines, modern elements, and a neutral color palette. Having the groom and groomsmens’ attire complementary and cohesive with the complete wedding day look is more important than ever. We definitely encourage grooms to step out of their comfort zone and go for the nontraditional soft neutral look.

Velvet

There is something unexpected about a velvet blazer. It will undoubtedly receive a ton of positive attention on the big day! 

Because it’s a richer, thicker fabric, it looks great for outdoor weddings, especially in deep green and dark blue. For those who are having weddings towards early spring, velvet bow ties or accents on shoes can look equally as rich with floral and citrus colors.

Bold Pops of Color

Color is back in a very big way when it comes to weddings in 2022. Not only in floral, decor, and general aesthetic, but also in men’s fashion. 

We are seeing suits in tones of blue from medium to dark navy, deep greens, and also burgundy/purple hues. However, some will tone it down with navy or black pants and let the blazer steal the show, while others are in head-to-toe color. Of course, it doesn’t end with an elegant tux or suit, but the accessories and shoes are also of utmost importance.

Emphasis on Fit

Stuffy tuxedos with vests and bow ties are a thing of the past, and instead, 2022 grooms are all about fitted suits with a sharp tie. Men today have much more interest in their wedding and how they look at their wedding.

No one wants an uncomfortable run-of-the-mill rented tuxedo and instead, they want it to be fitted, they want it to be the perfect length and they want it to be as memorable as their partner’s attire! 2022 is the year of men making fashion statements at their wedding!

Secret Nods to Significant Other

An unexpected trend for the groom’s look is coming up with unique ways to tie in his partner’s look or name into theirs. Grooms are creating a pocket square or jacket lining out of unused dress fabric or having their partner’s name embroidered under their collar for a romantic and personalized touch.

Pocket Square Boutonniere

When it comes to accessories, there’s a question we hear from grooms pretty often: “Boutonniere, pocket square, or both?” The pocket square boutonniere moves the floral accessory from the lapel to the pocket, creating a unique look that’s fresh, fun, and stylish all at once. 

Playful Second Looks

What better way to make an entrance to the reception than with an outfit change? We predict that grooms will be going more cool, casual, and a touch of their personal style when it’s time to dance the night away. Whether it be a custom sneaker from their favorite brand, a swanky white dinner jacket, or leave the suit jacket behind for a fun pair of suspenders or bow tie. 2022 will be an incredible year of wedding fashion, and grooms are definitely going to want in on it.

Custom Bespoke Wedding Suits 

At BBespoke, personal service is our specialty and we have many ways to serve you in NJ and NYC Area.  Our custom wedding suit tailoring services go far beyond just the material itself.  

Our owner, Bijan Zamanian, is personally involved with every new client to make sure nothing is left to chance.  We will even come to your place at home or office in New Jersey or New York (Consultations by video outside of our NJ & NYC travel area).

Book an appointment online today. You’ll be fitted so that your new suit has the best look and feel you can buy.

A Guide To Groom’s Wedding Suits

When it comes to a man’s big day he knows that all eyes are going to be on the bride as she makes her way down the aisle to him. And while she will look and feel every bit as beautiful as she deserves to, it behooves her significant other to look at his most handsome and elegant as he stands beside her to make his vows.

Whether your big day is just around the corner or years away, it’s in a groom’s best interest to start thinking about the kind of suit he’d like to wear as soon as possible. While you should look and feel comfortable, smart, and handsome in your wedding suit, you should also consider coordinating with the style of the bridal gown and bridesmaid dresses when selecting your style of suit.

Let’s take a look at the different styles of wedding suits available. 

Style

Evening Tails

If your wedding will be a formal affair, you may find that a traditional evening suit with tails or a frock coat is the best option to match the traditional aesthetic of your wedding.

The great thing about tailcoats is that they are snug and form-fitting yet flattering to virtually any physique while a Marcella waistcoat keeps your midsection under control.

The Wedding Tux

If you’re looking for something formal but the traditional top and tails aren’t for you, a tuxedo is always an elegant choice. The clean lines and satin lapels look great on pretty much everyone.

If your tastes veer towards the traditional, opt for a black tux and accentuate the formality with a classic black bow tie, whereas if you’re looking for something a little more contemporary a navy tux also looks fantastic.

Double-breasted Italian Style

The double-breasted, 6 button, Italian-style suit is a great way to combine elegance with a distinctive and different feel.

They are a little more formal than their single-breasted counterparts and while they are traditionally worn with long ties, it’s not inconceivable to pair it with a bow tie. This kind of suit is best for tall and/or slender grooms.

Colors

Gray

Going gray can be a good thing. With endless ways to wear a gray groom suit, it’s a good look no matter the season or time of day of your wedding. The gray suit can hold its own for any wedding dress code (except the really formal ones), but with a little extra attention to detail, you can dial up the perfect shade of gray for your wedding style.

Charcoal

The dark fabric of a charcoal suit means it’s well suited for fall and winter weddings, or any wedding that starts after 4 pm (roughly). If that sounds like your wedding, or if you’re leaning toward a formal wedding, this could be the suit for you—charcoal is on the formal end of the color spectrum.

Blue

The blue suit is modern and bold—a smart choice for an evening wedding in the spring or summer. In the fall, you can get away with blue during the day, but probably skip the vest—you never know what the temps will look like in late September. This is a casual groom’s suit, so read on if you’re looking for something formal in the blue family.

Tan

The tan suit is relatively casual, so it’s a good bet for daytime. While you wouldn’t choose a tan suit for a formal wedding, a tan groom suit might fit the vibe perfectly for vows on a tropical beach (or in a rustic barn, or at the base of a mountain).

Black

Black suits are the most formal groom suit option short of a tux—small (but significant) details are all that separate the two. They’re a little harsh for a wedding, which is why we only recommend them for evening or winter weddings. If you decide a black suit is a way you want to go, try to work in a little more color than basic black and white.

Accessories

Accessories are a way to add more flair or personal touches to your suit. Waistcoats are a simple and common addition to a suit, either matching with your suit or alternatively matching with your wedding color scheme.

Shoes

A black shoe is preferred for formal looks. Regardless of classification, if your suit is dark in color you should wear black shoes. For navy blue suits, a medium-to-dark brown should be worn.

Cummerbunds

Cummerbunds are often worn for formal black-tie events. Cummerbunds date back to the 1850s and their purpose was an alternative to a waistcoat to keep men cooler. Cummerbunds are used on the waist to help keep shirts tucked in. Cummerbunds ‘should’ be worn with a bow tie; this is to create a cleaner look and avoid ties or cravats reaching the cummerbund.

Cufflinks

Cufflinks are a staple wedding accessory, a way to add a personal touch to your suit with designs and styles significant to you. A small detail that can add depth to your wedding outfit.

Pocket Squares

Pocket squares are important to match with your wedding style, depending on suit color and wedding color scheme, and personal choice. You can match your pocket square to your tie or a different shade which pair nicely. The way you fold the pocket square is another opportunity to add flare.

Wedding Suits: Should You Choose Bespoke or Off the Rack?

Your wedding day is one of the most memorable days of your life. Looking and dressing amazing is one of the many goals you’ll have on that day, and it’s one that is extremely important. Just like the bride spending hours on end searching for the best wedding dress, the groom should also be dressed in a manner fit to the occasion.

If you can afford not to – we recommend you don’t rent a suit. Instead, look at ways to get a suit that fits you like a glove. That way your suit will signify an important moment of your life, and if made correctly, can even last you a lifetime.

Choosing Your Wedding Suit

When deciding on your wedding suit, these are the options available to you:

  • Off-the-rack or ready-made
  • Bespoke
Wedding mens suits in wedding shop on mannequins

What you decide to go with will depend on your budget, requirements, and body type. To choose a good suit, there are a few factors you need to take into account that we will be going through in the article below.

What You Need To Consider

Selecting a suit to be worn for normal, everyday situations is a simple process. However, for a special event like your wedding, more care and effort will need to be taken in order to look your best on that day. Before you make your decision, browse through the following factors and decide for yourself which suit option will work best for you.

1.   Identify The Basics

There is no right or wrong choice when it comes to a suit. It just depends on what you want out of the suit that you are wearing. The following are what you need to consider before purchasing any suit:

  • Budget – Bespoke suits are expensive and will cost quite a bit more than ready-made suits.
  • Time – Bespoke suits will take a lot more time to complete (between 1 – 3 months).
  • Customizability – You can customize a bespoke suit in any way that suits your fancy. However, you can only make small alterations will ready-made suits.
  • Body type – If you have a body type that can easily fit into any suit then a ready-made suit will work just fine for you.

Every person is unique, so you will have to decide for yourself what type of suit you want to tailor. If you have space in your wallet and enough time before the wedding though, you should ideally be looking at a bespoke suit for that once-in-a-lifetime experience.

2.   Decide On Your Budget

Your budget will be the most important determinant of what suit you will be wearing to your wedding. Ready-made suits are usually mass-produced and so their prices tend to be cheaper. With some minor alterations, this suit will be ready within a few days if you’re in a rush for your wedding.

However, you will also find ready-made suits that have their pricing on par with bespoke suits. This is only due to the brand name of the suits rather than the quality of the stitching, and you would be better off tailoring your own bespoke suit.

You don’t need a considerable budget to tailor a bespoke suit. The cost will depend on what you’re looking for. With an experienced tailor, you will be able to choose premium fabrics with top-notch finishings that fit within your budget so you don’t go overboard.

Think of it as a small investment into looking your very best on your wedding day, after which you will have a beautiful custom-made suit, unique to you, for any occasion.

3.   Getting The Right Fit

Your body type will greatly determine the suit you wear. Those with difficult-to-fit body types will have a hard time finding ready-made suits that look good on them. In these instances, bespoke suits will be your best choice as the suit will be custom-tailored to your exact body fit. A suit will never look better on you than a bespoke suit.

In the end, the choice is up to the groom’s preference. There are many factors to consider, but the truth is that you will look your sharpest only with a bespoke suit on your wedding day because it is made just for you.

Speak to one of our experts at BBespoke to get started on tailoring your bespoke suit before your wedding day. Remember, this style of tailoring will take time to complete so contact us early to avoid any disappointments.