How a Suit Should Fit

Man standing in front of mirror looking at custom suit

A look into the key checkpoints to make sure your suit looks sharp. Too many people fall into the trap of assuming they know their size and as long as they stick to that, the suit will fit. If only it were that simple! Suits vary in cut, construction, and style, and unfortunately, it’s not quite as easy as one rule for every body shape! This can make finding the right suit for you pretty tricky!

That’s why BBespoke is here to take the hassle of finding that perfectly fitting garment by making them to your specific measurements with meticulous attention to detail.

In the meantime, here’s the 101 on checking that all-important fit of your suit. – Starting with the Jacket.

Shoulder Line

Suit shoulder finishes come in a range of finishes, from padded, to soft to La Spalla Camicia. Whatever your preferred option, the key is the fit. The end of the shoulder pad should finish neatly in line with the end of your body’s shoulder. This will allow the arm to fill out the top of the sleeve which should drape smoothly in a straight line. Too tight and the arm will stretch the top of the sleeve, too big and the shoulders will hang unnaturally with an unsightly hole appearing in the void.


Lapels should sit flat against the chest. A gap between the chest and the lapels indicates the jacket is too big. If the chest panels are too small, the lapels will bow. The temptation of many is to go too tight – remember, tight is not always right!

Sleeve & Jacket Length

A couple of schools of thought are available on these very personal preferences. When it comes to sleeves, as a general rule, always flash a bit of your shirt cuff when your arms are in a relaxed position – ideally about an inch. A touch of color beneath the end of the jacket cuff always helps sharpen your look.

On jacket lengths, British traditionalists tend towards a long finish; clenching the fist and lining up the jacket with the knuckles gives a preferred length. This works particularly well with a more traditionally styled suit. The Italians tend towards a much shorter length teamed with a slimmer suit giving a more elegant line to the leg. As a general rule, by today’s standards, look to line up the bottom of the jacket with the bottom of the crotch of your trousers, with enough length in the back to just about cover your trouser seat – with this rule, you won’t go wrong!


You should always be able to button your jacket. Ideally, look for a gap of an inch to an inch and a half from the belly to the closure. Too tight and the button will pull and create an unsightly crease in the shape of an X in the front of the jacket. Too loose and your jacket will lose shape and silhouette. You could also be accused of smuggling. The button should ideally sit around the widest part of your body to allow the rest of the jacket to fall naturally into place.

Custom Bespoke Suits in NYC, NJ, & Anywhere In The U.S

At BBespoke, personal service is our specialty and we have many ways to serve you in NJ and NYC areas.  Our custom tuxedo, suit, and tailoring services go far beyond just the material itself.  

Our owner, Bijan Zamanian, is personally involved with every new client to make sure nothing is left to chance.  We will even come to your place at home or office in New Jersey or New York (Consultations by video outside of our NJ & NYC travel area).

Book an appointment online today. You’ll be fitted so that your new suit has the best look and feel you can buy.