If you’re just joining the world of suits, you will have found out there is a lot to learn. Particularly when it comes to bespoke suits. One of the questions we’re asked by customers often is whether a bespoke suit is made entirely by hand. To help you understand the process a bit better, keep reading.
Unlike a readymade suit, a bespoke suit is one that has been masterfully crafted to fit your exact body measurements. It is almost like your second skin because of how meticulously the suit will fit you. It is highly likely that no one else you know will be able to wear the suit the same way you do.
A bespoke suit is such a big part of the suit universe due to the definition it stands by – unique, masterful, and handcrafted. This isn’t your run-of-the-mill factory woven suit that you can find at any suit store. You purchase a bespoke suit when you want to make a statement and have a suit that is made solely for you.
Bespoke suits are expensive, but they’re expensive for a reason. It is because of how many man hours go into completing the suit as well as how much care is taken for every stitch made. A bespoke suit is almost fully crafted by hand with only minor tasks being handled by machines.
Hand-made parts of a bespoke suit
Almost every task of stitching a bespoke suit is done by hand. Let’s go through the whole process below:
- The selection of fabric and taking measurements (over 20 measurements to get the most accurate fit) is all done by hand and discussed with the head tailor. Recommendations will be provided to the client based on the requirements and budget.
- The exact amount of fabric required for all your garments will be cut from the same cloth to ensure that they all match. This fabric is then sent to the “cutter” who will analyze the measurements and photos provided to cut the initial foundation of the suit by hand.
- Once the fabric is cut, it will be sent back to the head tailor to stitch the suit to the exact measurements required for the client. This is also done by hand to ensure that there are no mistakes and that a high standard is maintained.
- The suit will then be transferred to the “finisher” who is responsible for adding the final touches to the suit such as the buttons and buttonholes. This is also done by hand to make sure there isn’t any stiffness or variations in button sizes.
- The client will be called in for a fitting at this point. Any alterations or changes that need to be made can be informed to the tailor. These fittings will happen quite often until the perfect suit is created at the end.
Machine-made parts of a bespoke suit
The machines are used only for tasks that cannot be improved by using hands. These are the menial tasks that won’t affect the final look of the suit.
- Long seams (i.e. jacket lining) are usually done by machines – They can provide a clean and efficient finish once the initial stitches are done by hand.
- Machine sewing for trouser legs – These can take a long time to do by hand and there are chances of mistakes. They can easily be done in a machine without sacrificing any quality because it is always a single long line.
- Pressing the suit – Once the initial stitching has been done on a suit, all the clothes are sent to be machine pressed to give it its final shape. This is done before your fittings and before the final product is handed over to you.
Bespoke suits are known for having multiple fittings before getting it right. This is because a perfect suit is not possible to achieve without testing out different measurements. Every fitting you go to will improve the fit of your suit until there are no more adjustments to be made. That is the true finality of a bespoke suit.
Bespoke suits stand for luxury, comfort, and long-term use. A well-maintained suit can last upwards of 20 years, and you won’t find a better fitting suit than one that is made especially for you.
While it is expensive, there are multiple benefits to getting one over a readymade suit which usually wouldn’t fit well on you. If budget isn’t a major factor, a bespoke suit would be the recommended choice for all men.