Why Every Man Needs a Tailor-made Suit

There are few items in a man’s wardrobe that are as timeless and classic as a tailored suit. Whether you’re attending a formal event or just need to look sharp for work, a well-fitting suit can make all the difference in your appearance and confidence. While off-the-rack suits can be convenient and budget-friendly, a tailor-made men’s suit offers a level of quality and fit that simply cannot be matched by mass-produced options. Here are a few reasons why you should consider investing in a tailor-made suit for your wardrobe.

Personalized Fit

One of the most significant advantages of a tailor-made suit is the ability to customize the fit to your specific body type.

Dapper man wearing a tailor-made suit.

Off-the-rack suits are made to fit a standard size, but every man’s body is different. This means that even if you find a suit that fits you well in one area, it may be too loose or too tight in other areas. A tailor-made suit allows you to have control over the fit of the jacket, pants, and vest, ensuring that every inch of the suit fits you like a glove.

Better Quality Materials

When you purchase a tailor-made suit, you have the opportunity to choose the materials and fabric that will be used. This allows you to select higher-quality materials that will last longer and look better over time. Off-the-rack suits often use cheaper, lower-quality materials in order to keep costs down. A tailor-made suit may cost more upfront, but the investment will pay off in the long run with a suit that looks and feels better and lasts longer.

Unique Style

Another advantage of a tailor-made suit is adding your personal touch and style to the design. With an off-the-rack suit, you’re limited to the styles and colors that are available at the store. With a tailor-made suit, you can choose the specific details and design elements that make the suit your own. This can include custom lapel styles, pocket styles, buttons, and more. You can even choose to add your own monogram or other personal touches to the suit.

Elevated Professionalism

In a business setting, first impressions are crucial. A tailor-made suit sends a message of professionalism and attention to detail. It shows that you care about your appearance and are willing to invest in quality clothing. Even if you don’t work in a formal business setting, a tailor-made suit can still give you a polished and sophisticated look that sets you apart from others.

Investment in Yourself

Finally, a tailor-made suit is an investment in yourself. It may cost more upfront than an off-the-rack suit, but the long-term benefits are worth it. A tailor-made suit will fit you perfectly, look better, and last longer than a mass-produced option. It’s an investment in your personal style and image, and it’s something that you can wear with pride for years to come.

In conclusion, a tailor-made men’s suit offers a level of quality, fit, and style that simply cannot be matched by off-the-rack options. While it may cost more upfront, the long-term benefits of a tailored suit make it a worthwhile investment. Whether you need a suit for formal events or just want to elevate your professional appearance, a tailor-made suit is a perfect choice.

Suit Button Rules Every Man Needs To Know

It might surprise you to learn that there are rules to follow when it comes to the buttons on your suit jacket. Most men do not adhere to these rules because they are unable to understand them, which is why they do not follow them.

Why are these rules important?

You may find that your jacket – depending on its style – can be fastened in a specific way, depending on how it is designed. The jacket will not drape properly if it is buttoned incorrectly. It is likely that your jacket will bunch up around your midsection, which will throw off the whole look of your outfit. Anyone in the know will be able to tell that you don’t know how to dress properly if you wear this outfit.

You need to know these men’s suit button rules if you want to dress like a stylish, distinguished man.

Why Does Buttoning Your Suit The Right Way Matter?

There are several reasons to care about how and when to button your suit jacket:

  • It sends a signal to the other person that you care about the details of the work. The vast majority of men who violate these rules do so because they don’t wear a suit on a regular basis. There are a few little rules that “those in the know” use to identify other men who are “in the know.”.
  • The majority of the times, this makes it easier for a man to look good wearing a suit. Standing, a suit that is buttoned cuts a much cleaner silhouette when compared to one that is not buttoned.
  • The buttons should be kept from popping off. Unbuttoning your shirt when seated allows you to sit more comfortably, prevents wrinkles, and prevents the buttons from popping as you sit down.
  • The assumption is that every suit comes with the bottom button fastened to the body, so there is no need to fasten it. It is common for modern manufacturers of suits to cut the fabric so that it does not drape properly when the bottom button on a jacket with two buttons or three buttons is pressed.

It is important to note that we are talking about SUITS in this case. There are usually the same buttons on a sports jacket as on a suit jacket, but the rules are much more relaxed since it is a more casual style of jacket.

When it comes to three-button jackets, your grandfather probably told you to button them sometimes, always, and never. For a two-button jacket – always, never. And for a one-button jacket – always.

Men’s Suit Button Rules – Single-Breasted Jackets

Single-breasted suit jackets have a single column of buttons and a narrow overlap at the front.

A typical jacket will have one, two, or three buttons on the front and a notch lapel on the back. The way in which you button the jacket depends on the number of buttons it has.

Because of its origins in traditional eveningwear designs, one-button suit jackets are often cut longer than other types of suits.

Keeping the button fastened maintains a balanced proportion.

The issue of deciding which button to fasten doesn’t exist due to only one buttonhole on the suit’s jacket.

These jackets should ALWAYS be buttoned when standing.

Buttoning Rules For Two-Button Suit Jackets

The traditional way to button a two-button jacket is to fasten the top button and leave the lower undone.

The top button on these jackets should ALWAYS be buttoned when standing.

Unbutton the jacket only when sitting down to avoid creases. Fasten it again as soon as you stand up from your seat.

NEVER button the bottom button.

Fastening the bottom button will make you look like you don’t know what you’re doing and add an extra ten pounds by the billowing illusion your jacket creates. You’re supposed to keep the bottom button undone because that’s how most men’s suits these days are cut.

If you fasten the bottom button, your suit is likely to fit more tightly around the hips. This causes the sides to flare out a little bit around your torso, throwing your silhouette out of proportion.

Buttoning Rules For Three-Button Suit Jackets

“Sometimes, always, never” refers to each of the three buttons.

When standing, it is optional to button the top, the middle always, and the bottom never.

  • Closing the top button on these jackets is OPTIONAL when standing.
  • The middle button on these jackets should ALWAYS be buttoned when standing.
  • You should NEVER fasten the bottom button.
  • Undo all buttons when seated.

You shouldn’t button many three-button suits on the top (called 2 1/2 suits), and the lower button is almost always in a position where it restricts movement. On some three-button jackets, the top button hides behind the lapel. If buttoning the top interferes with the lapel’s natural fold, it should be left unbuttoned (hence optional).

Two-Piece vs. Three-Piece Suits

While you probably know how to distinguish between a two-piece suit and a three-piece suit, do you really know what the differences between the two types of suits are?

Several rules govern each style, which you may be surprised to learn.

In spite of the fact that they may appear very similar at first glance, each has its own way of wearing them and its own appropriate places for you to wear them.

In the right setting, both of these will look very elegant and sophisticated.

What is a Two-Piece Suit?

The two-piece suit consists of only two pieces that make up this garment: the jacket and matching trousers that make up the suit jacket. There is no difference in fabric, print, or color between the top and bottom.

There is nothing more classic or traditional than a two-piece suit when it comes to everyday wear. Because it can be worn casually or formally, it is suitable for nearly any occasion. Additionally, it is very versatile as well.

With or without a tie, you can style it in a variety of ways, including traditional and unconventional ways. The only exception to this rule is when you are wearing this suit to a formal or black-tie event.

What is a Three-Piece Suit?

A three-piece suit is nearly identical to a two-piece suit, with a matching suit jacket and trousers. But there’s a bonus piece: the matching vest. You may call the vest a waistcoat, depending on where you’re from. The terms are interchangeable in this scenario.

The addition of the vest is a step up in formality. The vest is often made to match the rest of the suit. But in some garments, the vest looks different than the rest of the pieces. Even though a three-piece suit is a dressier version of a two-piece suit, it can be versatile, too. For example, you can convert this suit to a two-piece by leaving off the vest.

Two-Piece vs. Three-Piece Suit Differences

When it comes to deciding which suit you should wear or whether you should wear it, it can sometimes be confusing.

Due to the fact that the two garments are not equal, you need to understand all the differences between them so that you can make the right decision for you.

Here is a breakdown of some of the most notable differences between these two suits that you should be aware of.

As a result, you will be confident that you won’t make any fashion mistakes when you dress for your next special event.

Formality

In terms of formality, the three-piece suit is always considered to be the more formal of the two suits. With the addition of a vest or waistcoat, you will be able to create an outfit that is highly tailored and coordinated.

The fact that the vest is also included in this suit makes it more formal in terms of dress code since it creates a sense of being covered up, which makes it more formal in terms of dress code. In general, the more restrained and sober an outfit is, the dressier it seems to be.

The choice to wear a vest with a suit shows that you are a careful and tasteful dresser, as it demonstrates your attention to detail. In addition to having a vintage feel, it also has a feeling of elegance, evoking a sense of refinement.

Suit Fabric Options

In spite of the fact that both suits are available in high-quality fabrics, the two-piece suit has the advantage of more flexibility. Since a three-piece suit has a formal nature, it is not permitted to make use of any synthetic materials in its construction of it.

However, since the two-piece suit is a more casual garment, it can, of course, be made from a wider variety of fabrics due to the relaxed nature of the garment.

There is just no point in wearing a three-piece suit in summer since it is just too damn hot to wear that extra layer of clothing. In addition, that also means that you no longer have the option of wearing an entire set of summer fabrics with your two-piece suit. There are three types of suits that are excellent for summer events: cotton, linen, and seersucker suits.

Suit Style Limitations

While a three-piece suit may have a lot more pizazz, it also has many more limits as well.

While a two-piece suit can be styled in a variety of ways, a three-piece suit does not offer the same level of versatility.

When wearing a three-piece suit, there are a few definite no-nos. It is not a good idea to wear a tie bar when you are wearing a vest, for instance.

There is too much activity in the same area of your chest at the same time. Keep the area free of clutter by not clogging it up.

When wearing a vest, you should also avoid wearing a belt with it. The vest covers an extra layer around your waist, so you don’t need to pile on any more layers on top of it.

Do Bespoke Suits Take a Long Time To Make?

In the world of suits, there is a lot to learn if you are just starting out. Especially when it comes to bespoke suits. We’re often asked by customers whether a bespoke suit is made entirely by hand. Keep reading to learn more about the process.

Why Should You Consider Bespoke Suits?

Bespoke suits are handcrafted to fit your exact measurements, unlike readymade suits. The suit will fit you almost like a second skin because it is so meticulously tailored. There is a high probability that no one else you know will be able to wear the suit the same way you do.

Due to its definition – unique, masterful, and handcrafted – bespoke suits are a big part of the suit universe. You won’t find a factory-woven suit like this in any suit store. Buying a bespoke suit is the best way to make a statement and have a suit that is uniquely yours.

How Do Bespoke Suits Get Made?

There’s a reason why bespoke suits are expensive. Due to the amount of labor and care put into every stitch, the suit takes a long time to complete. Only minor tasks are handled by machines when crafting a bespoke suit.

A bespoke suit is almost entirely stitched by hand. Here’s how it works:

  1. To get the most accurate fit, over 20 measurements are taken by hand and discussed with the head tailor. Based on the client’s requirements and budget, recommendations will be provided.
  2. To ensure that all your garments will match, the exact amount of fabric required will be cut from the same cloth. By hand, the “cutter” will cut the initial foundation of the suit based on the measurements and photos provided.
  3. The fabric will be sent back to the head tailor for stitching to the exact measurements required by the client. Handwork ensures that there are no mistakes and that a high standard is maintained.
  4. The suit will then be given to the “finisher” who will add the final touches, such as buttons and buttonholes. To ensure the buttons are not stiff or different in size, this is also done by hand.
  5. At this point, the client will be called in for a fitting. It is possible to inform the tailor of any alterations or changes that need to be made. Several fittings will be required until the perfect suit is created.

Machine-Made Parts Of A Bespoke Suit

Machines are only used for tasks that cannot be improved by hand. The suit’s final look won’t be affected by these menial tasks.

  1. Machines can provide a clean and efficient finish once the initial stitches are done by hand for long seams (e.g. jacket lining).
  2. Machine sewing for trouser legs – These can take a long time to do by hand and there are chances of mistakes. They can easily be done in a machine without sacrificing any quality because it is always a single long line.
  3. To give a suit its final shape, all the clothes are machine pressed after the initial stitching has been completed. The final product is handed over to you before your fittings.

What Is the Purpose of Having So Many Fittings?

Getting a bespoke suit right requires multiple fittings. A perfect suit cannot be achieved without testing out different measurements. Every fitting will improve the fit of your suit until no further adjustments are needed. A bespoke suit is truly final.

What Makes A Bespoke Suit Better?

The bespoke suit represents luxury, comfort, and long-term use. The right suit can last upwards of 20 years, and you won’t find a better-fitting suit than one made especially for you.

Although it is expensive, it has multiple advantages over readymade suits that don’t fit well. All men should consider a bespoke suit if budget is not a major factor.

5 Menswear Pocket Types

One of the things that a gentleman eventually notices and appreciates when wearing tailored clothes is just how many pockets a suit or sports coat has.

Pockets, whether on a jacket or other article of clothing, are a key but often overlooked practical feature in clothing. In this article, we will explore the range of pockets that appear in classic menswear, whether they are more common, such as jetted, flap, or patch, but also more obscure—ever heard of coin pockets, welted pockets, or ticket pockets? Or even better, the frogmouth pocket? Once you are done with this complete guide you know all of them!

Jacket Pockets

Though pants pockets are more widely used, when it comes to talking pockets in menswear, suit jackets and sports coats get most of the attention. Mostly because of their exciting variety. In a nutshell, there are three main forms of external pockets on jackets in order of increasing formality: patch, flap, and jetted.

1. Patch Pockets

The patch pocket is in a sense the most “primitive” as its construction is also the most basic: a patch made of the same material as the jacket itself is simply stitched onto the surface. It is the least hidden of the pocket types, as it, as well as the contents it contains, rests above the garment surface; in this way, it has something in common with early external pouches. The patch pocket is seen as casual because its construction is highly visible, so it appears primarily on sports coats. If it appears on a suit, the suit is immediately rendered casual rather than appropriate for business wear; on the other hand, you could also likely split the suit and wear the top as an odd jacket.

Because they are spacious and have a wide opening at the top, patch pockets invite you to stick your hands in them for casual loafing. They also invite you to toss things into them; however, if patch pockets are laden with heavy items, even keys or a large mobile phone, they can sag, creating a sloppy appearance and permanently warping their appearance, even when they are empty. Pressing the pocket with iron can help with this, but the best approach is prevention: use these pockets only for light items.

2. Flap Pockets

Next in formality is the flap pocket. This differs from the patch pocket because the pouch exists beneath the surface of the jacket and is covered with a flap made from the same material as the jacket itself. This was originally supposed to keep debris from getting into jacket pockets when worn in the country. Flap pockets occupy a sort of middle ground in terms of formality: they are the main choice for business suits, but they can also appear on sports coats as a testament to their casual origins.

3. Jetted Pockets

Sometimes, men will comment that they prefer to leave the flaps on their pockets tucked in, and, actually, flap pockets were originally intended to be worn this way; the flaps were only taken out if they were necessary to keep rain or debris from getting in. Essentially, a tucked-in flap creates impromptu jetted pockets for a cleaner, more polished silhouette. These are the most formal pocket style, appearing on evening wear and formal morning dress alike, though they can also appear on suits and even on sports coats. Their appropriateness for formal clothing, however, lies in their streamlined appearance, since all you see of the pocket is a slit. Jetted pockets are also referred to as besom pockets or welted pockets; the term “welted” refers to the reinforced edges (welts) of the slit, which are partially decorative and partially practical support.

4. The Ticket Pocket

Usually, the discussion of jacket pockets–and of menswear pockets in general–ends here. However, this omits a great number of others that are present on jackets. The ticket pocket, for example, is a third pocket that appears on the lower quarters of a jacket, above the main right pocket. This is because the wearer is assumed by default to be right-handed and would reach into it with his dominant hand. Lefties have to go bespoke or made to measure for the same convenience. 

The ticket pocket is most commonly flapped and slightly smaller than the pocket below it, though jetted versions exist. The name hints at its original purpose as a feature for train travel: a gentleman traveling to the country would carry his ticket in it, which is also why it technically should be a feature on British country-style jackets, such as tweeds, rather than those intended to be worn for business. When it appears on three-button hacking jackets, the ticket pocket, and indeed, all the flap pockets, may be cut on an upward sloping diagonal; this makes it easier to access the pockets while on horseback, further reinforcing their country associations.

5. Inside Pockets

The most useful pockets on a tailored jacket are the inner ones, though they aren’t often discussed. They may not be a sexy topic, but it’s worth “looking under the hood” at the inside pockets as part of your off-the-rack purchasing decision. Most sport coats and suit jackets will only have two, one on each side. This is enough to carry a coat or breast wallet on one side (the left side if you’re right-handed) and your phone on the other. 

You don’t necessarily want to add many more things on the right side due to the bulk; this is especially important since the wallet goes on the same side where there is already a pocket square. Popular options for additional ”everyday carry” in the other pocket are a cell phone, a small notebook and pen for notes, lists and ruminations, or even a flask of booze. If you’re lucky enough to have additional pockets, you can use them for other things, like your vehicle key fob, mints, a cigar, or the aforementioned notepad.

All You Need to Know About Custom Lapels

Close-up of a groom in blue wedding dress

Sometimes when we experience something magnificent, it is difficult to return to the old way of doing things. When we become accustomed to drinking good wine, it seems meaningless to drink cheap tasting wine. When we experience a job that gives us the freedom to create at will and brings us fulfillment, it is difficult to change to a job that lacks these aspects. In the same way, after we experience being dressed by a bespoke tailor, it feels disappointing to return to a ready-to-wear wardrobe.

Considering that a bespoke suit is able to serve a person for a lifetime (and may even be re-tailored and passed down to someone else), we notice that most people who opt for the bespoke tailored suit do not seem interested in returning to the world of ready-to-wear suits, and it becomes clear that one bespoke-tailored suit can be valued more by its owner, than four or five of ready-to-wear suits.

What is it about the bespoke tailored suit that spoils our taste for all the others?  Of course, the answer is a long list of impressive reasons ranging from the subtle but precise shoulder construction to a smooth back with no gape at the collar, to the ineffably charming ragged-at-the-back buttonholes, to working horn-buttons on the cuff, to those magical floating canvasses. Yet, one of the foremost indicators to the eye that signals a bespoke suit is the lapel roll.

The Lapel Roll

Lapel Roll: The fall and curl of the lapel downwards from the break (fold) of the collar to the designated button.  The term ‘roll’ applies to a softer lapel finish.

Components Of The Lapel Roll

The main components of the lapel roll include the belly and the roll line. We also notice the result of the “hollow” on a finished lapel.

The Belly

The belly describes the lowest part of the turn of the lapel curve as seen below. Some tailors believe that a lot of belly is required to give the lapels the desired degree of upward angle.

The 3 roll 2 is a favorite among gentlemen of substantial height (as a gentleman who is not tall should avoid too many buttons and pockets on a coat in order to avoid breaking the continuous vertical line of the suit) mainly for the reason that the third button plays a part in assisting the tailor to shape an elegant lapel belly roll. Such a roll is a clear signal of a hand-stitched lapel, for no machine-made or fused lapel is able to exhibit roll with this button in place.

The Roll Line

The roll line is the imaginary line measured from the point that the lapel begins (collar section) to the point where the lapel ends (button area).

The Hollow

The hollow of the lapel refers to the depth of the area underneath the fold curve.

The depth of the hollow of the lapel is a matter of personal taste and may vary according to the method of construction preferred by the customer and/or tailor.

Care Of The Rolled Lapel

As it is preferred that the tailor will provide cleaning and care of your custom suits, at times this option is not available. It is not uncommon for suit owners to be mortified to find that some dry cleaners have pressed custom lapels on coats “flat”,  after they come off the commercial press, literally obliterating the roll. If your tailor cannot care for your suit and you opt for a cleaning service, it is best to find a professional cleaner that provides a “sponge & press” service, which requires hand-pressing the garment according to its original shape. But, to play it safe, maintain your lapel roll at home.

Let’s Get Started

Bespoke is personal service by definition.  True customization is personal.  At BBespoke, personal service is our specialty and we have many ways to serve you in NJ and NYC areas.  Our custom tuxedo, suit and tailoring services go far beyond just the material itself. 

Questions? Please contact us and discuss your vision, your event, and your needs today.

What To Wear To A Formal Event

Formal attire is an outfit that matches a certain dress code’s needs, appropriate for a particular formal occasion.

The dress code will usually be stated on the invite. Each event will have different dress code expectations. What people wear to an event helps shape its atmosphere and decorum.

Understanding what to wear for each type of event can be daunting. This guide will explain each dress code and the perfect garments to wear for each.

Understanding the Formal Attire Terms

Highly formal events such as white-tie and black-tie have specific dress code rules and details you should follow.

These dress codes have 200 years of history, so it’s important to respect them to make a good impression.

Some invites may state “black tie optional”. The word optional can be ominous because it suggests inclusivity but may neglect the host’s actual expectations or recurring guests.

Business formal dress codes are more relaxed than black-tie codes; you have more freedom to play with different colors and patterns.

In case you’ve received an invitation, and it only states that you need to wear formal attire, your best option is to wear your tuxedo. Plan B is to wear a suit appropriate for all formal events.

It’s always better to be dressed up than underdressed. The same rule of thumb applies when no dress code is suggested at all.

White Tie Formal Attire

Just in case you become famous or presidential, you should know how to dress for a prestigious white tie evening. White tie dress codes are used for state dinners, galas, charity balls, and elite evening weddings.

It’s definitely the most formal attire of Western culture. Also called a full evening dress, a white tie dress suit is the epitome of formality. It abides by strict rules and is reserved for the most notable evening events.

A hand-tied white bow tie and evening tailcoat are the main pieces you’ll need for a white tie evening. In addition, your pants should be high-waisted with a build-in adjuster and two lines of decorative braid or satin piping down each leg.

You should wear a white stiff-fronted cotton tuxedo shirt with a pique bib. This shirt should have a soft detachable wingtip collar, French cuffs, and decorative studs. Finally, put on your cufflinks, and you are almost “white tie” ready.

The next step is either putting on your white waistcoat or pleated cummerbund under your tailcoat.

If you choose to wear a cummerbund, ensure that the pleats are facing upward. Also, hook your cummerbund into your pants to stay in place while you dance the night away.

The best shoes to pair with this ensemble are capless, patent leather oxfords or opera pumps with a grosgrain bow. Silk calf-high socks are mandatory, too.

White tie accessories to consider are a top hat, key chain, white gloves, or a white and black opera scarf. I think you’ll go for the scarf.

Black-Tie Formal Attire

Black-tie is your opportunity to dress like 007. The black-tie attire applies to formal evening weddings, business award ceremonies, and exclusive private dinners.

Tuxedos and black bow ties are the hallmark staple of black-tie events. You can either wear a black or midnight blue tuxedo.

In fact, dark blue tuxedos were originally worn to black-tie events as they appear equally dark under artificial lighting.

Tuxedo Jacket

Your dinner jacket should have shawl lapels. Your lapels and the inside of your jacket should have shiny satin facings.

Tuxedos usually have a single-breasted jacket, but a double-breasted jacket is also appropriate. The tuxedo jacket should only have one silk button. Four silk surgeon buttons will decorate the cuffs of your tuxedo jacket.

Your tuxedo jacket should not have vents. It gives a cleaner and sharper appearance. Also, you should avoid tuxedo jackets with flap pockets or notched lapels, as these features compromise the formality of your suit.

Straight jetted pockets will lend a cleaner aesthetic to your suit. You can either wear a black waistcoat or a cummerbund under your jacket, but never both.

Tuxedo Shirt and Cufflinks

A tuxedo shirt is a white cotton shirt with a twill weave.

The center strip of your dress shirt can be minimalistic, showing no studs (fly front placket). But you can also choose a plain placket that will show your decorative studs.

The third option is to choose a tuxedo shirt with pleats on each side of your placket with visible decorative studs. The front placket will add some extra detailing to your plain white shirt. 

You can choose French cuffs, barrel cuffs, or convertible cuffs for your tuxedo shirt. Don’t forget to close your cuffs with an elegant black or silver cufflinks set.

Make sure that your dress watch matches your cufflinks. Wear a silver watch, or even better, a watch with a black leather strap.

Tuxedo Pants

Your pants should be high-waisted with a single line of decorative satin or braid piping down the leg.

Tuxedo pants should have a slight break when meeting the top of the shoe. Tailoring your pants will ensure they don’t hang on the floor or bunch up at your ankles in an unflattering way.

Shoes

You can either wear black patent leather lace-up oxfords or opera pumps for a black-tie event. Alternatively, you can wear a pair of black capless leather shoes that aren’t necessarily lace-up oxfords.

Lace-up oxfords have leather soles which makes them fantastic for dancing. They are lightweight and don’t stick to the floor as much as rubber soles do. Wear black calf-high socks with your shoes.

Top 5 Timeless Men’s Suit Styles

Looking for a new suit? Not sure what to invest in? We’ve all been there and when it comes to men’s suits there are so many options to choose from it can be overwhelming. Let us break it down and shed some light on the top 5 timeless styles that you will never go wrong with. We will also give you a little insight as to what to wear with that suit, and what type of man that suit fits best if necessary. The best part of this entire list is the fact you can design each of the below styles in-person at our studio. Browse 100’s of fabric options of men’s bespoke suits.

The Two Button Charcoal Suit

Number one on our list of top 5 men’s suits with timeless style is The 2 Button Charcoal Suit. There are only so many places and events the men’s classic black suit is proper for. Adding this to your closet of men’s suits and style repertoire will allow you to mix this with a multitude of custom dress shirts, ties, and more. 

This suit doesn’t really work best for any specific type but more so for every man. We recommend wearing this with solid and patterned dress shirts, just be careful not to add patterned ties with patterned shirts.

The Plaid Suit

Number two on our list of top 5 men’s suits with timeless style is the plaid suit. Plaid suits you don’t always see every day which is precisely why you want in on this bad boy. It’s unique, memorable, and helps you stand out. 

The good thing about plaid suits is they are year-round favorites. You can always find brighter patterns for the warmer months and darker ones for the colder months. See our plaid collection of men’s suits today. Since the suit pattern on plaid suits is usually quite busy we recommend keeping your custom dress shirts solid and being certain your tie patterns complement this suit properly.

The Double Breasted Suit

Number three on our list of top 5 men’s suits with timeless style is the double-breasted suit. This absolutely ageless sensation has been around for longer than both you and I have been alive. But at any rate, it has seen peaks and valleys of being “in-fashion”; the good thing is it doesn’t seem to ever go away which tells us it’s a surefire winner no matter what your age. This suit is ideal for taller and more slender or physically fit men. 

We recommend a more modern appeal on this timeless piece to make certain this investment is a custom-made suit, you want this as form-fitting and slim as possible. One note that we must state is that you never are to wear the jacket unbuttoned, so take note. When it comes to pairings, we suggest wearing solid custom dress shirts and solid ties with this masterpiece of men’s suits.

The Three Piece Suit

Number four on our list of top 5 men’s suits with timeless style is the three-piece suit. What can we say about the three-piece suit, it’s dapper sophistication, its stand-alone style that won’t age, it’s on every style guide imaginable that pertains to men’s suits. It allows you to layer in the colder months, and keep a custom-tailored appearance when your jacket is off as well. 

Our favorite aspect to the three-piece suit is the vest/waistcoat does not always have to match the suit fabric, as long as it’s a complementing color you can find in the suit we say go for it. Your custom dress shirts can be patterned or solid, the same goes for your ties just be careful on your patterns, be sure they complement, not clash.

The Navy Blue Suit (Single or Two Button)

Number five on our list of top 5 men’s suits with timeless style is the navy blue suit. Whether you opt for Single Button or Two Button, this suit simply can be worn to just about anything, anytime, for any reason, all year round. Think, weddings, work, dates, etc. 

It can be easily paired with a plethora of custom dress shirt options (solids and patterns alike), and the same applies to ties. You can also wear this suit jacket with your favorite denim. It works well for all types of men and is always going on sale.

Guide to Bespoke Suits

Bespoke, like a luxury, is a word that is often abused, misused to give something that is neither ‘bespoke’ nor ‘luxury’ a gloss of sophistication or justify a high price tag. The truth is that bespoke – exclusively something made just for you – is arguably the greatest luxury. And perhaps no more so than when it comes to a suit.

Yes, bespoke suits are an investment, but done right it’s an investment that will last a lifetime and mean you’ll rarely have to buy off-the-rack again. To that end, here is the complete guide to buying a bespoke suit.

The History Of Bespoke Suits

Up until less than a century ago, all men wore bespoke. Clothes were hand-made for the individual who could afford it, and those who couldn’t wear bespoke cast-offs.

It was in the late 1500s that Robert Baker set up the first tailoring business in London’s Piccadilly area – named after the ‘pickadill’, an Elizabethan term for a shirt collar – becoming suit-maker to the court of King James I in the process. As was commonplace then, like craftspeople flocked together – and soon the area, from Jermyn Street to Savile Row, became the epicenter of England’s menswear trade.

It was only in the 1950s, when manufacturing technology allowed the production of more affordable ready-to-wear clothes, that the tables were turned. Bespoke became the exception rather than the norm: for this, we can thank off-the-peg pioneer Montague Burton.

Bespoke Vs Made-To-Measure

Ask most men the difference between a ‘made-to-measure’ and ‘bespoke’ suit and the odds are that they’ll be unable to distinguish between the two. It doesn’t help that on occasion the terms are muddled deliberately to dress up a product. A lack of industry regulations regarding definitions has left a grey area that the Advertising Standards Association has addressed, somewhat inclusively. “Customers would expect a bespoke suit to be tailored to their measurements and specifications [but] would not expect that suit to be fully hand-made with the pattern cut from scratch,” it stated.

Adding to the confusion: fittings are increasingly required for both bespoke and made-to-measure. A bespoke service may require an individually-cut pattern, which is then kept on file should further suit be required. But often made-to-measure measurements are now stored, too. And cloths are chosen for bespoke and made-to-measure garments alike, with only the breadth of choice differing. Even hand-making, often cited as a benchmark of bespoke is now increasingly found in made-to-measure garments, while machine-making plays some part in the creation of most bespoke suits, especially in the creation of trousers

Why Buy Bespoke?

While many men can look passable in an off-the-peg suit, there’s no such thing as a standardized, symmetrical body. Bespoke aims to even out all personal quirks of stature and posture to improve your overall appearance.

Indeed, a bespoke suit requires the skills of several experts – a cutter, tailor, trouser maker, finisher, presser and so on – which goes some way to explaining both the cost of bespoke and its longevity.

The Bespoke Suit Process

Those new to bespoke may find the quiet examination of their posture, walk, sitting position, and anatomy somewhat disconcerting, but it’s necessary for the tailor to make the best suit for you. Matters of taste, however, are largely the individual’s call.

The process requires you to decide on every aspect of the suit, from cut to fabric, pocket type to position. But you’ll be wisely advised, both because each tailor has a house style – not imposed but favored – and because that’s what tailors do: make an assessment of your lifestyle and needs and help you eliminate options and ideas and pinpoint what’s best.

Custom Bespoke Suits in NYC, NJ, & Anywhere In The U.S

At BBspoke, personal service is our specialty and we have many ways to serve you in NJ and NYC Area.  Our custom tuxedo, suit, and tailoring services go far beyond just the material itself.  

Our owner, Bijan Zamanian, is personally involved with every new client to make sure nothing is left to chance.  We will even come to your place at home or office in New Jersey or New York (Consultations by video outside of our NJ & NYC travel area).

Book an appointment online today. You’ll be fitted so that your new suit has the best look and feel you can buy.

How To Style a Tweed Jacket

Tweed can be intimidating. Yes, historically, it has been synonymous with Ivy League professors, Sherlock Holmes, and gun-toting English gentlemen. But today, it’s a smart and versatile staple that any man can and should incorporate into his wardrobe, especially during these bitterly cold winter months.

Whether you’re trying to understand how to wear a tweed jacket that’s been hiding in the back of your wardrobe for years or trying to work up the courage to pull the trigger on finally buying one, we’re here to help. Here are five different ways to style the timeless but on-trend tweed jacket.

What is Tweed?

Tweed is a type of woolen material. It originated in a fabric-producing region in Scotland, near the Tweed River, during the early 1800s. However, the river isn’t its namesake, as someone elsewhere misread its original spelling of “tweel weave” for “tweed weave”, assuming this false connection of names. Nonetheless, the name stuck and its popularity soared. 

In the production of tweed fabric, it is woven in intricate ways to create different, typically diagonal, patterns such as plain, twill, herringbone, and check. Plain may be the most frequently used pattern of tweed, but it is much more complex than it seems. While the plain pattern may just be one color, it is given depth in several ways. For instance, various shades of one color could be used in the weave. Also, different colors can be woven in one thread to build on the pattern. This goes to show the balance of complexity and simplicity of tweed, as the simple structure and color palette blend with the complex weaving and patterns. 

The colors and patterns have made this fabric a very popular choice for blazers and suits. However, it has also served as material for caps, gloves, trousers, and liners. Most commonly, the fabric is dyed with various combinations of earth-tone colors, like different shades of brown or blue. Though it can be rough and unfinished, it’s both wind and water-resistant. Hence, it isn’t surprising to learn that this was first designed for farmers and other outdoorsmen. Eventually, because of tweed’s durability, one of its most favored forms has become that of a sports jacket, perfect for enduring the elements when outside.

Tweed Color Combinations 

There are numerous ways to wear a tweed jacket, whether you want to be casual or dress up for a smart occasion. Below are our favorite options and combinations.

Gray

A grey tweed blazer paired with an elegant white dress shirt and a navy blue pocket square. This look is designed for daytime office wear, as well as for casual evening occasions. The colors of the blazer and the white shirt are subtle. However, adding the accessory of the bold midnight blue pocket square adds a small, smart flare to the ensemble that builds on its sophistication. Not too flashy, it creates a professional look that shows careful consideration in its assembly.

Blue

A blue tweed blazer paired with a blue shirt and beige chinos. This outfit is the perfect look for a lunch date or weekend occasion where you want to look dapper, but not “too dressy”. By choosing no accessories (tie, bow tie, or pocket square) and a linen shirt, this attire is stylish and ideal for casual business environments or dinners. The two different shades of blue between the shirt and blazer match perfectly well and create a nice contrast between the beige of the chinos. However, the contrast isn’t off-putting and adds to the look a more polished feel.

Brown

A brown tweed blazer paired with grey chinos and a classic blue shirt. This works for more casual-business environments and occasions. The brown blazer has a fine, warm color that isn’t too bold or flashy for an informal environment. However, the touch of blue from the blue oxford shirt pops a bit out from underneath the tweed, allowing the outfit to stand out just enough.

How The Modern Gentleman Wears Tweed 

Smart-casual

The two-button tailored tweed jacket was the definitive smart-casual choice long before the term ‘smart-casual’ was coined: worn with flannels and brogues or loafers, the jacket had an air of academia about it, with pockets stuffed with one’s daily necessities, collar turned against the wind. Think George Orwell, Woody Allen, Dr. Who, even Dirty Harry.

These days unstructured tweed jackets and coats – worn perhaps with chinos – look more contemporary, more at ease. Don’t stand on ceremony in tweed: like a pair of jeans, a tweed jacket is one of those garments that looks better the older and more battered it is.

Formal

A tweed suit may well last you a lifetime – and it will certainly pose a challenge to anyone also enjoying that central heating. But tweed is also one of those fabrics – akin to corduroy in some respects – that manages to look smart when properly tailored, but also relaxed at the same time. This is partly down to image, partly down to the tactility, density, and sheen of the cloths.

But play down the tweed suit’s in-built traditionalism by wearing it with knitwear – a charcoal roll-neck, for example – rather than shirt and tie. If you’re opting for the latter, stay clear of tattersall checked shirts and plaid ties.