5 Menswear Pocket Types

One of the things that a gentleman eventually notices and appreciates when wearing tailored clothes is just how many pockets a suit or sports coat has.

Pockets, whether on a jacket or other article of clothing, are a key but often overlooked practical feature in clothing. In this article, we will explore the range of pockets that appear in classic menswear, whether they are more common, such as jetted, flap, or patch, but also more obscure—ever heard of coin pockets, welted pockets, or ticket pockets? Or even better, the frogmouth pocket? Once you are done with this complete guide you know all of them!

Jacket Pockets

Though pants pockets are more widely used, when it comes to talking pockets in menswear, suit jackets and sports coats get most of the attention. Mostly because of their exciting variety. In a nutshell, there are three main forms of external pockets on jackets in order of increasing formality: patch, flap, and jetted.

1. Patch Pockets

The patch pocket is in a sense the most “primitive” as its construction is also the most basic: a patch made of the same material as the jacket itself is simply stitched onto the surface. It is the least hidden of the pocket types, as it, as well as the contents it contains, rests above the garment surface; in this way, it has something in common with early external pouches. The patch pocket is seen as casual because its construction is highly visible, so it appears primarily on sports coats. If it appears on a suit, the suit is immediately rendered casual rather than appropriate for business wear; on the other hand, you could also likely split the suit and wear the top as an odd jacket.

Because they are spacious and have a wide opening at the top, patch pockets invite you to stick your hands in them for casual loafing. They also invite you to toss things into them; however, if patch pockets are laden with heavy items, even keys or a large mobile phone, they can sag, creating a sloppy appearance and permanently warping their appearance, even when they are empty. Pressing the pocket with iron can help with this, but the best approach is prevention: use these pockets only for light items.

2. Flap Pockets

Next in formality is the flap pocket. This differs from the patch pocket because the pouch exists beneath the surface of the jacket and is covered with a flap made from the same material as the jacket itself. This was originally supposed to keep debris from getting into jacket pockets when worn in the country. Flap pockets occupy a sort of middle ground in terms of formality: they are the main choice for business suits, but they can also appear on sports coats as a testament to their casual origins.

3. Jetted Pockets

Sometimes, men will comment that they prefer to leave the flaps on their pockets tucked in, and, actually, flap pockets were originally intended to be worn this way; the flaps were only taken out if they were necessary to keep rain or debris from getting in. Essentially, a tucked-in flap creates impromptu jetted pockets for a cleaner, more polished silhouette. These are the most formal pocket style, appearing on evening wear and formal morning dress alike, though they can also appear on suits and even on sports coats. Their appropriateness for formal clothing, however, lies in their streamlined appearance, since all you see of the pocket is a slit. Jetted pockets are also referred to as besom pockets or welted pockets; the term “welted” refers to the reinforced edges (welts) of the slit, which are partially decorative and partially practical support.

4. The Ticket Pocket

Usually, the discussion of jacket pockets–and of menswear pockets in general–ends here. However, this omits a great number of others that are present on jackets. The ticket pocket, for example, is a third pocket that appears on the lower quarters of a jacket, above the main right pocket. This is because the wearer is assumed by default to be right-handed and would reach into it with his dominant hand. Lefties have to go bespoke or made to measure for the same convenience. 

The ticket pocket is most commonly flapped and slightly smaller than the pocket below it, though jetted versions exist. The name hints at its original purpose as a feature for train travel: a gentleman traveling to the country would carry his ticket in it, which is also why it technically should be a feature on British country-style jackets, such as tweeds, rather than those intended to be worn for business. When it appears on three-button hacking jackets, the ticket pocket, and indeed, all the flap pockets, may be cut on an upward sloping diagonal; this makes it easier to access the pockets while on horseback, further reinforcing their country associations.

5. Inside Pockets

The most useful pockets on a tailored jacket are the inner ones, though they aren’t often discussed. They may not be a sexy topic, but it’s worth “looking under the hood” at the inside pockets as part of your off-the-rack purchasing decision. Most sport coats and suit jackets will only have two, one on each side. This is enough to carry a coat or breast wallet on one side (the left side if you’re right-handed) and your phone on the other. 

You don’t necessarily want to add many more things on the right side due to the bulk; this is especially important since the wallet goes on the same side where there is already a pocket square. Popular options for additional ”everyday carry” in the other pocket are a cell phone, a small notebook and pen for notes, lists and ruminations, or even a flask of booze. If you’re lucky enough to have additional pockets, you can use them for other things, like your vehicle key fob, mints, a cigar, or the aforementioned notepad.

All You Need to Know About Custom Lapels

Close-up of a groom in blue wedding dress

Sometimes when we experience something magnificent, it is difficult to return to the old way of doing things. When we become accustomed to drinking good wine, it seems meaningless to drink cheap tasting wine. When we experience a job that gives us the freedom to create at will and brings us fulfillment, it is difficult to change to a job that lacks these aspects. In the same way, after we experience being dressed by a bespoke tailor, it feels disappointing to return to a ready-to-wear wardrobe.

Considering that a bespoke suit is able to serve a person for a lifetime (and may even be re-tailored and passed down to someone else), we notice that most people who opt for the bespoke tailored suit do not seem interested in returning to the world of ready-to-wear suits, and it becomes clear that one bespoke-tailored suit can be valued more by its owner, than four or five of ready-to-wear suits.

What is it about the bespoke tailored suit that spoils our taste for all the others?  Of course, the answer is a long list of impressive reasons ranging from the subtle but precise shoulder construction to a smooth back with no gape at the collar, to the ineffably charming ragged-at-the-back buttonholes, to working horn-buttons on the cuff, to those magical floating canvasses. Yet, one of the foremost indicators to the eye that signals a bespoke suit is the lapel roll.

The Lapel Roll

Lapel Roll: The fall and curl of the lapel downwards from the break (fold) of the collar to the designated button.  The term ‘roll’ applies to a softer lapel finish.

Components Of The Lapel Roll

The main components of the lapel roll include the belly and the roll line. We also notice the result of the “hollow” on a finished lapel.

The Belly

The belly describes the lowest part of the turn of the lapel curve as seen below. Some tailors believe that a lot of belly is required to give the lapels the desired degree of upward angle.

The 3 roll 2 is a favorite among gentlemen of substantial height (as a gentleman who is not tall should avoid too many buttons and pockets on a coat in order to avoid breaking the continuous vertical line of the suit) mainly for the reason that the third button plays a part in assisting the tailor to shape an elegant lapel belly roll. Such a roll is a clear signal of a hand-stitched lapel, for no machine-made or fused lapel is able to exhibit roll with this button in place.

The Roll Line

The roll line is the imaginary line measured from the point that the lapel begins (collar section) to the point where the lapel ends (button area).

The Hollow

The hollow of the lapel refers to the depth of the area underneath the fold curve.

The depth of the hollow of the lapel is a matter of personal taste and may vary according to the method of construction preferred by the customer and/or tailor.

Care Of The Rolled Lapel

As it is preferred that the tailor will provide cleaning and care of your custom suits, at times this option is not available. It is not uncommon for suit owners to be mortified to find that some dry cleaners have pressed custom lapels on coats “flat”,  after they come off the commercial press, literally obliterating the roll. If your tailor cannot care for your suit and you opt for a cleaning service, it is best to find a professional cleaner that provides a “sponge & press” service, which requires hand-pressing the garment according to its original shape. But, to play it safe, maintain your lapel roll at home.

Let’s Get Started

Bespoke is personal service by definition.  True customization is personal.  At BBespoke, personal service is our specialty and we have many ways to serve you in NJ and NYC areas.  Our custom tuxedo, suit and tailoring services go far beyond just the material itself. 

Questions? Please contact us and discuss your vision, your event, and your needs today.

What To Wear To A Formal Event

Formal attire is an outfit that matches a certain dress code’s needs, appropriate for a particular formal occasion.

The dress code will usually be stated on the invite. Each event will have different dress code expectations. What people wear to an event helps shape its atmosphere and decorum.

Understanding what to wear for each type of event can be daunting. This guide will explain each dress code and the perfect garments to wear for each.

Understanding the Formal Attire Terms

Highly formal events such as white-tie and black-tie have specific dress code rules and details you should follow.

These dress codes have 200 years of history, so it’s important to respect them to make a good impression.

Some invites may state “black tie optional”. The word optional can be ominous because it suggests inclusivity but may neglect the host’s actual expectations or recurring guests.

Business formal dress codes are more relaxed than black-tie codes; you have more freedom to play with different colors and patterns.

In case you’ve received an invitation, and it only states that you need to wear formal attire, your best option is to wear your tuxedo. Plan B is to wear a suit appropriate for all formal events.

It’s always better to be dressed up than underdressed. The same rule of thumb applies when no dress code is suggested at all.

White Tie Formal Attire

Just in case you become famous or presidential, you should know how to dress for a prestigious white tie evening. White tie dress codes are used for state dinners, galas, charity balls, and elite evening weddings.

It’s definitely the most formal attire of Western culture. Also called a full evening dress, a white tie dress suit is the epitome of formality. It abides by strict rules and is reserved for the most notable evening events.

A hand-tied white bow tie and evening tailcoat are the main pieces you’ll need for a white tie evening. In addition, your pants should be high-waisted with a build-in adjuster and two lines of decorative braid or satin piping down each leg.

You should wear a white stiff-fronted cotton tuxedo shirt with a pique bib. This shirt should have a soft detachable wingtip collar, French cuffs, and decorative studs. Finally, put on your cufflinks, and you are almost “white tie” ready.

The next step is either putting on your white waistcoat or pleated cummerbund under your tailcoat.

If you choose to wear a cummerbund, ensure that the pleats are facing upward. Also, hook your cummerbund into your pants to stay in place while you dance the night away.

The best shoes to pair with this ensemble are capless, patent leather oxfords or opera pumps with a grosgrain bow. Silk calf-high socks are mandatory, too.

White tie accessories to consider are a top hat, key chain, white gloves, or a white and black opera scarf. I think you’ll go for the scarf.

Black-Tie Formal Attire

Black-tie is your opportunity to dress like 007. The black-tie attire applies to formal evening weddings, business award ceremonies, and exclusive private dinners.

Tuxedos and black bow ties are the hallmark staple of black-tie events. You can either wear a black or midnight blue tuxedo.

In fact, dark blue tuxedos were originally worn to black-tie events as they appear equally dark under artificial lighting.

Tuxedo Jacket

Your dinner jacket should have shawl lapels. Your lapels and the inside of your jacket should have shiny satin facings.

Tuxedos usually have a single-breasted jacket, but a double-breasted jacket is also appropriate. The tuxedo jacket should only have one silk button. Four silk surgeon buttons will decorate the cuffs of your tuxedo jacket.

Your tuxedo jacket should not have vents. It gives a cleaner and sharper appearance. Also, you should avoid tuxedo jackets with flap pockets or notched lapels, as these features compromise the formality of your suit.

Straight jetted pockets will lend a cleaner aesthetic to your suit. You can either wear a black waistcoat or a cummerbund under your jacket, but never both.

Tuxedo Shirt and Cufflinks

A tuxedo shirt is a white cotton shirt with a twill weave.

The center strip of your dress shirt can be minimalistic, showing no studs (fly front placket). But you can also choose a plain placket that will show your decorative studs.

The third option is to choose a tuxedo shirt with pleats on each side of your placket with visible decorative studs. The front placket will add some extra detailing to your plain white shirt. 

You can choose French cuffs, barrel cuffs, or convertible cuffs for your tuxedo shirt. Don’t forget to close your cuffs with an elegant black or silver cufflinks set.

Make sure that your dress watch matches your cufflinks. Wear a silver watch, or even better, a watch with a black leather strap.

Tuxedo Pants

Your pants should be high-waisted with a single line of decorative satin or braid piping down the leg.

Tuxedo pants should have a slight break when meeting the top of the shoe. Tailoring your pants will ensure they don’t hang on the floor or bunch up at your ankles in an unflattering way.

Shoes

You can either wear black patent leather lace-up oxfords or opera pumps for a black-tie event. Alternatively, you can wear a pair of black capless leather shoes that aren’t necessarily lace-up oxfords.

Lace-up oxfords have leather soles which makes them fantastic for dancing. They are lightweight and don’t stick to the floor as much as rubber soles do. Wear black calf-high socks with your shoes.

Top 5 Timeless Men’s Suit Styles

Looking for a new suit? Not sure what to invest in? We’ve all been there and when it comes to men’s suits there are so many options to choose from it can be overwhelming. Let us break it down and shed some light on the top 5 timeless styles that you will never go wrong with. We will also give you a little insight as to what to wear with that suit, and what type of man that suit fits best if necessary. The best part of this entire list is the fact you can design each of the below styles in-person at our studio. Browse 100’s of fabric options of men’s bespoke suits.

The Two Button Charcoal Suit

Number one on our list of top 5 men’s suits with timeless style is The 2 Button Charcoal Suit. There are only so many places and events the men’s classic black suit is proper for. Adding this to your closet of men’s suits and style repertoire will allow you to mix this with a multitude of custom dress shirts, ties, and more. 

This suit doesn’t really work best for any specific type but more so for every man. We recommend wearing this with solid and patterned dress shirts, just be careful not to add patterned ties with patterned shirts.

The Plaid Suit

Number two on our list of top 5 men’s suits with timeless style is the plaid suit. Plaid suits you don’t always see every day which is precisely why you want in on this bad boy. It’s unique, memorable, and helps you stand out. 

The good thing about plaid suits is they are year-round favorites. You can always find brighter patterns for the warmer months and darker ones for the colder months. See our plaid collection of men’s suits today. Since the suit pattern on plaid suits is usually quite busy we recommend keeping your custom dress shirts solid and being certain your tie patterns complement this suit properly.

The Double Breasted Suit

Number three on our list of top 5 men’s suits with timeless style is the double-breasted suit. This absolutely ageless sensation has been around for longer than both you and I have been alive. But at any rate, it has seen peaks and valleys of being “in-fashion”; the good thing is it doesn’t seem to ever go away which tells us it’s a surefire winner no matter what your age. This suit is ideal for taller and more slender or physically fit men. 

We recommend a more modern appeal on this timeless piece to make certain this investment is a custom-made suit, you want this as form-fitting and slim as possible. One note that we must state is that you never are to wear the jacket unbuttoned, so take note. When it comes to pairings, we suggest wearing solid custom dress shirts and solid ties with this masterpiece of men’s suits.

The Three Piece Suit

Number four on our list of top 5 men’s suits with timeless style is the three-piece suit. What can we say about the three-piece suit, it’s dapper sophistication, its stand-alone style that won’t age, it’s on every style guide imaginable that pertains to men’s suits. It allows you to layer in the colder months, and keep a custom-tailored appearance when your jacket is off as well. 

Our favorite aspect to the three-piece suit is the vest/waistcoat does not always have to match the suit fabric, as long as it’s a complementing color you can find in the suit we say go for it. Your custom dress shirts can be patterned or solid, the same goes for your ties just be careful on your patterns, be sure they complement, not clash.

The Navy Blue Suit (Single or Two Button)

Number five on our list of top 5 men’s suits with timeless style is the navy blue suit. Whether you opt for Single Button or Two Button, this suit simply can be worn to just about anything, anytime, for any reason, all year round. Think, weddings, work, dates, etc. 

It can be easily paired with a plethora of custom dress shirt options (solids and patterns alike), and the same applies to ties. You can also wear this suit jacket with your favorite denim. It works well for all types of men and is always going on sale.

Guide to Bespoke Suits

Bespoke, like a luxury, is a word that is often abused, misused to give something that is neither ‘bespoke’ nor ‘luxury’ a gloss of sophistication or justify a high price tag. The truth is that bespoke – exclusively something made just for you – is arguably the greatest luxury. And perhaps no more so than when it comes to a suit.

Yes, bespoke suits are an investment, but done right it’s an investment that will last a lifetime and mean you’ll rarely have to buy off-the-rack again. To that end, here is the complete guide to buying a bespoke suit.

The History Of Bespoke Suits

Up until less than a century ago, all men wore bespoke. Clothes were hand-made for the individual who could afford it, and those who couldn’t wear bespoke cast-offs.

It was in the late 1500s that Robert Baker set up the first tailoring business in London’s Piccadilly area – named after the ‘pickadill’, an Elizabethan term for a shirt collar – becoming suit-maker to the court of King James I in the process. As was commonplace then, like craftspeople flocked together – and soon the area, from Jermyn Street to Savile Row, became the epicenter of England’s menswear trade.

It was only in the 1950s, when manufacturing technology allowed the production of more affordable ready-to-wear clothes, that the tables were turned. Bespoke became the exception rather than the norm: for this, we can thank off-the-peg pioneer Montague Burton.

Bespoke Vs Made-To-Measure

Ask most men the difference between a ‘made-to-measure’ and ‘bespoke’ suit and the odds are that they’ll be unable to distinguish between the two. It doesn’t help that on occasion the terms are muddled deliberately to dress up a product. A lack of industry regulations regarding definitions has left a grey area that the Advertising Standards Association has addressed, somewhat inclusively. “Customers would expect a bespoke suit to be tailored to their measurements and specifications [but] would not expect that suit to be fully hand-made with the pattern cut from scratch,” it stated.

Adding to the confusion: fittings are increasingly required for both bespoke and made-to-measure. A bespoke service may require an individually-cut pattern, which is then kept on file should further suit be required. But often made-to-measure measurements are now stored, too. And cloths are chosen for bespoke and made-to-measure garments alike, with only the breadth of choice differing. Even hand-making, often cited as a benchmark of bespoke is now increasingly found in made-to-measure garments, while machine-making plays some part in the creation of most bespoke suits, especially in the creation of trousers

Why Buy Bespoke?

While many men can look passable in an off-the-peg suit, there’s no such thing as a standardized, symmetrical body. Bespoke aims to even out all personal quirks of stature and posture to improve your overall appearance.

Indeed, a bespoke suit requires the skills of several experts – a cutter, tailor, trouser maker, finisher, presser and so on – which goes some way to explaining both the cost of bespoke and its longevity.

The Bespoke Suit Process

Those new to bespoke may find the quiet examination of their posture, walk, sitting position, and anatomy somewhat disconcerting, but it’s necessary for the tailor to make the best suit for you. Matters of taste, however, are largely the individual’s call.

The process requires you to decide on every aspect of the suit, from cut to fabric, pocket type to position. But you’ll be wisely advised, both because each tailor has a house style – not imposed but favored – and because that’s what tailors do: make an assessment of your lifestyle and needs and help you eliminate options and ideas and pinpoint what’s best.

Custom Bespoke Suits in NYC, NJ, & Anywhere In The U.S

At BBspoke, personal service is our specialty and we have many ways to serve you in NJ and NYC Area.  Our custom tuxedo, suit, and tailoring services go far beyond just the material itself.  

Our owner, Bijan Zamanian, is personally involved with every new client to make sure nothing is left to chance.  We will even come to your place at home or office in New Jersey or New York (Consultations by video outside of our NJ & NYC travel area).

Book an appointment online today. You’ll be fitted so that your new suit has the best look and feel you can buy.

How To Style a Tweed Jacket

Tweed can be intimidating. Yes, historically, it has been synonymous with Ivy League professors, Sherlock Holmes, and gun-toting English gentlemen. But today, it’s a smart and versatile staple that any man can and should incorporate into his wardrobe, especially during these bitterly cold winter months.

Whether you’re trying to understand how to wear a tweed jacket that’s been hiding in the back of your wardrobe for years or trying to work up the courage to pull the trigger on finally buying one, we’re here to help. Here are five different ways to style the timeless but on-trend tweed jacket.

What is Tweed?

Tweed is a type of woolen material. It originated in a fabric-producing region in Scotland, near the Tweed River, during the early 1800s. However, the river isn’t its namesake, as someone elsewhere misread its original spelling of “tweel weave” for “tweed weave”, assuming this false connection of names. Nonetheless, the name stuck and its popularity soared. 

In the production of tweed fabric, it is woven in intricate ways to create different, typically diagonal, patterns such as plain, twill, herringbone, and check. Plain may be the most frequently used pattern of tweed, but it is much more complex than it seems. While the plain pattern may just be one color, it is given depth in several ways. For instance, various shades of one color could be used in the weave. Also, different colors can be woven in one thread to build on the pattern. This goes to show the balance of complexity and simplicity of tweed, as the simple structure and color palette blend with the complex weaving and patterns. 

The colors and patterns have made this fabric a very popular choice for blazers and suits. However, it has also served as material for caps, gloves, trousers, and liners. Most commonly, the fabric is dyed with various combinations of earth-tone colors, like different shades of brown or blue. Though it can be rough and unfinished, it’s both wind and water-resistant. Hence, it isn’t surprising to learn that this was first designed for farmers and other outdoorsmen. Eventually, because of tweed’s durability, one of its most favored forms has become that of a sports jacket, perfect for enduring the elements when outside.

Tweed Color Combinations 

There are numerous ways to wear a tweed jacket, whether you want to be casual or dress up for a smart occasion. Below are our favorite options and combinations.

Gray

A grey tweed blazer paired with an elegant white dress shirt and a navy blue pocket square. This look is designed for daytime office wear, as well as for casual evening occasions. The colors of the blazer and the white shirt are subtle. However, adding the accessory of the bold midnight blue pocket square adds a small, smart flare to the ensemble that builds on its sophistication. Not too flashy, it creates a professional look that shows careful consideration in its assembly.

Blue

A blue tweed blazer paired with a blue shirt and beige chinos. This outfit is the perfect look for a lunch date or weekend occasion where you want to look dapper, but not “too dressy”. By choosing no accessories (tie, bow tie, or pocket square) and a linen shirt, this attire is stylish and ideal for casual business environments or dinners. The two different shades of blue between the shirt and blazer match perfectly well and create a nice contrast between the beige of the chinos. However, the contrast isn’t off-putting and adds to the look a more polished feel.

Brown

A brown tweed blazer paired with grey chinos and a classic blue shirt. This works for more casual-business environments and occasions. The brown blazer has a fine, warm color that isn’t too bold or flashy for an informal environment. However, the touch of blue from the blue oxford shirt pops a bit out from underneath the tweed, allowing the outfit to stand out just enough.

How The Modern Gentleman Wears Tweed 

Smart-casual

The two-button tailored tweed jacket was the definitive smart-casual choice long before the term ‘smart-casual’ was coined: worn with flannels and brogues or loafers, the jacket had an air of academia about it, with pockets stuffed with one’s daily necessities, collar turned against the wind. Think George Orwell, Woody Allen, Dr. Who, even Dirty Harry.

These days unstructured tweed jackets and coats – worn perhaps with chinos – look more contemporary, more at ease. Don’t stand on ceremony in tweed: like a pair of jeans, a tweed jacket is one of those garments that looks better the older and more battered it is.

Formal

A tweed suit may well last you a lifetime – and it will certainly pose a challenge to anyone also enjoying that central heating. But tweed is also one of those fabrics – akin to corduroy in some respects – that manages to look smart when properly tailored, but also relaxed at the same time. This is partly down to image, partly down to the tactility, density, and sheen of the cloths.

But play down the tweed suit’s in-built traditionalism by wearing it with knitwear – a charcoal roll-neck, for example – rather than shirt and tie. If you’re opting for the latter, stay clear of tattersall checked shirts and plaid ties.

The Guide to Suit Fabrics

finished jackets in tailoring atelier on hangers

With a plethora of different fabrics and patterns on the market, it’s easy to become spoiled for choice when buying a suit! However, the type of fabric is important when wearing a suit for a particular event or a particular time of the year. Therefore, this guide deals specifically with different types of suit fabrics and weaves. 

In this article, you will find out what defines a good suit fabric. You will also learn the key characteristics of the most popular types of suiting fabric. Finally, you will get clued into the controversy over synthetic suits.

Why Does Suit Fabric Matter?

There many details to consider when buying suit, but the two main factors that decide on a suit’s quality and cost: construction and fabric. This is the suiting equivalent to parts and labor on a car. Very quickly, suits are made with either fused, half, or full canvas interlinings onto which fabric is either glued (fused) or sewn. Glued suits are cheaper, sewn suits are more expensive.

Fabric is the other main factor that decides a suit’s quality and cost. Good fabric will feel better, hold its shape for longer, and look better for its lifespan. As you might imagine, it’s a more expensive product than its lower-quality counterparts.

Fabric Types

Cashmere

Cashmere is a kind of wool that comes from the soft under-hair of a particular kind of goat native to Mongolia. It has an incredibly soft texture, great water resistance, and excellent breathability. You can find cashmere suits in lighter or heavier weaves suitable for varying temperatures.

Cashmere can last many, many years with proper care. It also insulates even better than most sheep’s wool, making it an ideal material for cold-weather suits. Plus, it has a lustrous appearance and drapes elegantly for pants!

Cotton 

Plant fibers represent another category of fabrics a customer can choose from. Cotton is an accepted option for many casual suits, and is, in most cases, less expensive than wool or linen. It is flexible and breathable, but shows creases more than wool fabrics. Another classic plant fiber is linen, which is made from the fibers of the flax plant. While it is very breathable, it does develop a characteristic wrinkle

Silk

As a fiber, silk is elastic and has pretty good strength. However, it’s super-light and easy to wear. It has moderate resistance to wrinkles and it does not attract dirt because of its smoothness. Silk is a natural temperature regulator, which will keep you warm in winter and cool in summer. It’s perfect for all seasons and fits most body types; however, it’s best for more formal events.

It’s pretty rare to see a 100% silk suit nowadays. That sort of thing is generally limited to the like of Prince Charles while vacationing in the tropics. It’s more likely that you’ll see silk as part of a suit’s fabrication (60% worsted wool and 40% silk, for example). It is sometimes used in high-end suit linings, but this should only be done if the customer really loves a lining’s design, as synthetic silks like viscose are actually stronger than the original fabric.

Velvet

Velvet is another soft and luxurious fabric that can be made from both natural and synthetic fibers. Even the term velvet itself describes “soft and smooth” nowadays. The soft pile of velvet makes for a warm, comfortable winter jacket. Velvet has a bit of heft to it because of its thick pile, making it less suitable for hot weather wear.

Avoiding Synthetic Materials

While nearly all mass-market retailers sell various polyester suits, high-end brands generally don’t use this fabric because its affordability gives it an air of cheapness. Polyester is an affordable synthetic material basically made out of plastic. Low-quality polyester suits do look sort of shiny, giving them a cheap look.

the polyester suit issue is open for debate. If you want affordable suits, go for it! If you want a fancy brand and high-end quality, you’re going to need to dish out the dollars for an expensive all-natural material like wool. Our team tries to work withing your budget! 

New Jersey’s Choice for Quality Suit Fabrics 

Finding one suit that fits is hard enough, never mind finding a variety of suits in different fabrics. But with a quality Bespoke suit, our team can put together a custom-sized suit with a variety of colors and fabrics, in a breeze.

If you’re looking to spruce up your suit collection, and are in need of a quality suit, consider contacting us. At BBespoke, our reputation is based on an uncompromising dedication to craftsmanship and personal services.

5 Reasons To Avoid Buying Off-the-Rack

Even If you’re just a beginner to the world of menswear, you’ve definitely come across these terms at some point. Bespoke, off-the-rack. These may be words you’re unfamiliar with. Well, maybe not off-the-rack.

It’s safe to say that having at least one suit isn’t a luxury, but a necessity. Every person will find themself in a situation where they’re going to need a suit, no matter what line of work they’re in.

Triptych photo of a three pinstripe suits with shirt and ties.

But, it’s important to talk about practicality, too. Yes, there will be a situation eventually where you’ll need to wear a suit. In fact, you might need multiple suits depending on your profession. The latter scenario may prompt you to be even more price-conscious. After all, multiple suits don’t come cheap. You may be tempted to save some money by opting for off-the-rack suits.

Nothing can beat the look and fit of a bespoke suit. But, your wallet makes a pretty hard to ignore case. Here is why you’re doing yourself a disservice if you do end up opting for off-the-rack suits over custom suits.

What is an Off-The-Rack Suit?

Before we reveal why exactly off-the-rack suits are a poor choice, let’s first break down the definition of this term, as many people are likely hearing about it for the first time. An off-the-rack suit is exactly what it sounds like: a suit that’s sold as-is, right off the rack. They are produced in a range of standard sizes, designed to fit the majority of men. This makes off-the-rack suits a popular choice for retailers, simply because they don’t have to alter or otherwise customize them in any way, shape or form.

It’s important to note that most off-the-rack suits are not canvassed. Rather, they are fused with the interlining being glued to the shell using a high-heat process. This saves both time and money for the manufacturer, but at the cost of quality. Fusing typically results in a lack of support for the suit’s canvas structure, making them more susceptible to damage over time.

Lifetime value

A custom suit has the highest lifetime value. They are built to last for years as long as you take care of them. The cheaper, machine-sewn materials used in off-the-rack suits won’t have the same durability. Also, and we have to be honest, everyone tends to put on a little weight over the years. Don’t you want a suit that you can still wear after putting on a few extra pounds? An off-the-rack suit is basically done once it stops fitting right. A custom, a bespoke suit is tailored with this in mind. It fits perfectly now, yes, but there is also some excess material in the jacket that can be worked with in order to still provide a perfect fit if you put on another ten pounds or so. Custom suits fit you perfectly, not the 90% or so that many men will settle for. They are designed to hide the body’s irregularities. Have a bit of a paunch? Get your suit tailored around it. Have a shoulder visibly higher than the other? Your suit can be tailored to visually balance them.

It Will Cost You More in the Long Run

The upfront cost of an off-the-rack suit may appear lower than other suits, but you’ll probably end up spending more in the long run. There are two reasons for this, first and foremost off-the-rack suits are low quality, making them more susceptible to damage. Secondly, you’ll probably have to take your off-the-rack suit to a tailor so it fits better. This will cost you more money, negating the otherwise cost-savings benefits offered by this generic style of men’s suits.

Looking your best has tremendous value. It’s far beyond what might be saved buying an off-the-rack suit that you would still need to get altered to fit properly, anyway. A custom suit will last you and the craftsmanship involved will be obvious to discerning eyes. Do yourself a favor and invest in a custom suit.

 Custom Bespoke Suits in NYC, NJ, & Anywhere In The U.S

BBspoke personal service is our specialty and we have many ways to serve you in NJ and NYC Area.  Our custom tuxedo, suit and tailoring services go far beyond just the material itself.  Book an appointment online today. You’ll be fitted so that your new suit has the best look and feel you can buy.

How To Make a Great Impression With Your Suit Color

Whether you’re preparing for a job interview, having lunch with a new client, or going on a first date, first impressions matter. A key aspect of first impressions is the color you present to others through your clothing. But does clothing color really affect how you’re perceived by those you meet for the first time?

Color creates certain long-term subconscious cues in others as to how they should regard us. These impressions are impacted beyond the level of individual psychology to social psychology, where certain hues are associated with people that we have seen in powerful positions or in leadership contexts.

Be Bold

Mature professional Tailor taking measurements for sewing suit at tailors shop.

If you want to convey confidence and authority to those around you, it’s best to wear strong, vivid, and bold colors. This approach can be accomplished from multiple different angles.

You may choose to wear a solid yellow tie, for example, to demonstrate a confident and fun-loving demeanor. Or if you wish to convey bold authority, leaning towards darker colors would do the trick.

Be Approachable

Maybe the first impression you’re going for is a friendly and approachable vibe. You want a prospective employer, for example, to feel comfortable around you. You want them to know how friendly and easy-going you are.

Choosing a look with bold colors and zany patterns may not be the best choice in this case, as those may serve to be intimidating or off-putting to some. Instead, try wearing softer colors. Light, soft colors are often seen as more inviting and less in your face. Light greens, yellows, blues, and coral are some such colors with a friendlier appeal.

The Psychology Of Color

There have been countless studies led on the effect that color has on one’s mood and psychology. Each of them has proven various things about the power of color, but they all prove one thing: Color has a profound effect on human emotion and initial impressions.

Here is what each of four common suit, coat, or dress shirt colors says about you, in terms of the qualities or values they suggest:

Leadership – Black

Black is powerful and aggressive. It sends a message that you are a leader or have control. Black is a key color in the fashion world that is often associated with stylishness. Fashion writer Samantha Kemp suggests contrasting black with a bright tie or flash of color in a handkerchief. Black can be intimidating to those you meet, so be aware that it may not be easy for others to engage with you. However, you can use it to underscore your prominence and to appear debonair or glamorous. Style writer Antonio Centeno cautions that black is a better choice for those with darker hair and darker complexions. For someone with fairer features and lighter hair, black can be overpowering.

Teamwork – Blue

Blue conveys a sense that you have high self-esteem – that you believe in yourself. Research has shown that navy blue could ultimately be the strongest choice for a job-interview suit for this reason. Navy works well in an interview setting, says Kemp, because it comes across as professional and stable without having the dreariness that can be associated with black. When you walk into an important interview or event wearing a navy suit, you suggest important market values such as seriousness, diligence, and detail orientation.

Logic – Gray

When you wear gray, you convey a sense of independence. That tone of separation can be positive or negative, depending on how well you carry yourself when you wear it. Gray is the color of self-sufficiency and the ability to formulate thoughts and plans without external assistance. In fact, Kemp sees gray as tied with blue for the best possible suit color – adding that men and women will typically look better in darker and lighter shades, respectively. Centeno suggests that charcoal grey can help make someone look more experienced and mature.

Looking To Add New Suit Colors To Your Wardrobe?

Finding one suit that fits is hard enough, never mind finding a variety of suits in different colors. But with a quality Bespoke suit, our team can put together a custom-sized suit with a variety of colors and fabrics, in a breeze.

If you’re looking to spruce up your suit collection, and are in need of a quality suit, consider contacting us. At BBespoke, our reputation is based on an uncompromising dedication to craftsmanship and personal services.

Should You Buy A Bespoke Suit At A Young Age (13-16)?

A bespoke suit is a statement about yourself. It is tailored with your specific image, style, and body size in mind. It is designed to fit perfectly to match every curve and angle in your body and it’s a must-have in every professional wardrobe. But what about teens? Do they need to have a bespoke suit?

What Exactly Is A Bespoke Suit?

 A bespoke suit is a custom, hand-stitched suit that is made to be uniquely yours. It is not like a custom suit where you visit a tailor, get your measurements taken, and then revisit the tailor for a fitting or two until it is ready.

Blue suit with tie and handkerchief.

A bespoke suit will take much longer to complete and a lot more money to get perfect. When you first visit a bespoke tailor, over 30 different measurements will be taken with pinpoint accuracy to ensure that they have all the information on file for a perfect fit. You will then have to decide on the materials and style you want for the suit, which will also depend on your budget.

From that point, the tailor will get to work on the suit and you will be called in for multiple fittings, typically over 5 times, in order to check the fit on your body. This process can take anywhere between 3 weeks to 2 months until the suit is ready. 

You won’t see the average person wearing a bespoke suit for casual purposes. This is because of the amount of time and money that will need to be spent to get this suit fitted.

Can A Young Person Purchase A Bespoke Suit?

There is nothing stopping any person, young or old, from purchasing a bespoke suit. Anyone can visit their tailor and get a suit made if they have the finances for it. But, do teens really need a bespoke suit?

The two biggest factors we have to keep in mind for this question are the following:

  • The suit fit
  • Financing

The suit fit

Bespoke suits a tailored to fit your body like a glove. For this reason, it is always recommended that anyone looking to get one stitched should be in the body shape they want to be in before going ahead with the measurements. This is because any small change in your body change is going to make the suit uncomfortable and won’t look as good on you anymore.

Getting the suit refitted is a long and difficult process and will require more money and more time spent on it than is absolutely necessary for a suit. A bespoke suit is meant to last for over a decade. It uses the finest materials and the best stitching techniques to ensure that the person can keep that suit looking amazing for years to come.


The problem with young people tailoring a bespoke suit is that their bodies are still developing. Teenagers especially are quite prone to growth spurts and other changes. It is even possible for them to go in for measurements on the first day and then have different measurements when they go in for the final fitting.

This makes the tailoring process difficult as the tailor will have to adjust the suit constantly, and if the suit is made, that young person would be able to enjoy wearing the suit once or, if possible, twice. Having spent so much time and money on the suit, this seems like a big waste and they would be better off purchasing a normal custom suit for the time being.

Financing

Bespoke suits can cost two or three times as much as a custom suit. In general, a custom suit will cost upwards of $800, while a lower-tier bespoke suit can cost upwards of $2,800.

It’s safe to say that these suits are expensive. But, there is a reason for why it is so. Unlike custom suits which are machine-stitched, bespoke suits are done by hand and take considerably longer to stitch than a custom suit. Therefore, unless you have the money to throw around as a young adult, a bespoke suit is not a prudent financial decision.

If you have the money for it, then go ahead, there’s nothing stopping you. But keep in mind that the suit won’t last long if your teen is still growing – and it’s a huge investment to make for something that’s temporary. If you want to discuss suit options for teens, why not get in touch with our friendly team today and we’ll be happy to talk options with you.