Top 5 Timeless Men’s Suit Styles

Looking for a new suit? Not sure what to invest in? We’ve all been there and when it comes to men’s suits there are so many options to choose from it can be overwhelming. Let us break it down and shed some light on the top 5 timeless styles that you will never go wrong with. We will also give you a little insight as to what to wear with that suit, and what type of man that suit fits best if necessary. The best part of this entire list is the fact you can design each of the below styles in-person at our studio. Browse 100’s of fabric options of men’s bespoke suits.

The Two Button Charcoal Suit

Number one on our list of top 5 men’s suits with timeless style is The 2 Button Charcoal Suit. There are only so many places and events the men’s classic black suit is proper for. Adding this to your closet of men’s suits and style repertoire will allow you to mix this with a multitude of custom dress shirts, ties, and more. 

This suit doesn’t really work best for any specific type but more so for every man. We recommend wearing this with solid and patterned dress shirts, just be careful not to add patterned ties with patterned shirts.

The Plaid Suit

Number two on our list of top 5 men’s suits with timeless style is the plaid suit. Plaid suits you don’t always see every day which is precisely why you want in on this bad boy. It’s unique, memorable, and helps you stand out. 

The good thing about plaid suits is they are year-round favorites. You can always find brighter patterns for the warmer months and darker ones for the colder months. See our plaid collection of men’s suits today. Since the suit pattern on plaid suits is usually quite busy we recommend keeping your custom dress shirts solid and being certain your tie patterns complement this suit properly.

The Double Breasted Suit

Number three on our list of top 5 men’s suits with timeless style is the double-breasted suit. This absolutely ageless sensation has been around for longer than both you and I have been alive. But at any rate, it has seen peaks and valleys of being “in-fashion”; the good thing is it doesn’t seem to ever go away which tells us it’s a surefire winner no matter what your age. This suit is ideal for taller and more slender or physically fit men. 

We recommend a more modern appeal on this timeless piece to make certain this investment is a custom-made suit, you want this as form-fitting and slim as possible. One note that we must state is that you never are to wear the jacket unbuttoned, so take note. When it comes to pairings, we suggest wearing solid custom dress shirts and solid ties with this masterpiece of men’s suits.

The Three Piece Suit

Number four on our list of top 5 men’s suits with timeless style is the three-piece suit. What can we say about the three-piece suit, it’s dapper sophistication, its stand-alone style that won’t age, it’s on every style guide imaginable that pertains to men’s suits. It allows you to layer in the colder months, and keep a custom-tailored appearance when your jacket is off as well. 

Our favorite aspect to the three-piece suit is the vest/waistcoat does not always have to match the suit fabric, as long as it’s a complementing color you can find in the suit we say go for it. Your custom dress shirts can be patterned or solid, the same goes for your ties just be careful on your patterns, be sure they complement, not clash.

The Navy Blue Suit (Single or Two Button)

Number five on our list of top 5 men’s suits with timeless style is the navy blue suit. Whether you opt for Single Button or Two Button, this suit simply can be worn to just about anything, anytime, for any reason, all year round. Think, weddings, work, dates, etc. 

It can be easily paired with a plethora of custom dress shirt options (solids and patterns alike), and the same applies to ties. You can also wear this suit jacket with your favorite denim. It works well for all types of men and is always going on sale.

Guide to Bespoke Suits

Bespoke, like a luxury, is a word that is often abused, misused to give something that is neither ‘bespoke’ nor ‘luxury’ a gloss of sophistication or justify a high price tag. The truth is that bespoke – exclusively something made just for you – is arguably the greatest luxury. And perhaps no more so than when it comes to a suit.

Yes, bespoke suits are an investment, but done right it’s an investment that will last a lifetime and mean you’ll rarely have to buy off-the-rack again. To that end, here is the complete guide to buying a bespoke suit.

The History Of Bespoke Suits

Up until less than a century ago, all men wore bespoke. Clothes were hand-made for the individual who could afford it, and those who couldn’t wear bespoke cast-offs.

It was in the late 1500s that Robert Baker set up the first tailoring business in London’s Piccadilly area – named after the ‘pickadill’, an Elizabethan term for a shirt collar – becoming suit-maker to the court of King James I in the process. As was commonplace then, like craftspeople flocked together – and soon the area, from Jermyn Street to Savile Row, became the epicenter of England’s menswear trade.

It was only in the 1950s, when manufacturing technology allowed the production of more affordable ready-to-wear clothes, that the tables were turned. Bespoke became the exception rather than the norm: for this, we can thank off-the-peg pioneer Montague Burton.

Bespoke Vs Made-To-Measure

Ask most men the difference between a ‘made-to-measure’ and ‘bespoke’ suit and the odds are that they’ll be unable to distinguish between the two. It doesn’t help that on occasion the terms are muddled deliberately to dress up a product. A lack of industry regulations regarding definitions has left a grey area that the Advertising Standards Association has addressed, somewhat inclusively. “Customers would expect a bespoke suit to be tailored to their measurements and specifications [but] would not expect that suit to be fully hand-made with the pattern cut from scratch,” it stated.

Adding to the confusion: fittings are increasingly required for both bespoke and made-to-measure. A bespoke service may require an individually-cut pattern, which is then kept on file should further suit be required. But often made-to-measure measurements are now stored, too. And cloths are chosen for bespoke and made-to-measure garments alike, with only the breadth of choice differing. Even hand-making, often cited as a benchmark of bespoke is now increasingly found in made-to-measure garments, while machine-making plays some part in the creation of most bespoke suits, especially in the creation of trousers

Why Buy Bespoke?

While many men can look passable in an off-the-peg suit, there’s no such thing as a standardized, symmetrical body. Bespoke aims to even out all personal quirks of stature and posture to improve your overall appearance.

Indeed, a bespoke suit requires the skills of several experts – a cutter, tailor, trouser maker, finisher, presser and so on – which goes some way to explaining both the cost of bespoke and its longevity.

The Bespoke Suit Process

Those new to bespoke may find the quiet examination of their posture, walk, sitting position, and anatomy somewhat disconcerting, but it’s necessary for the tailor to make the best suit for you. Matters of taste, however, are largely the individual’s call.

The process requires you to decide on every aspect of the suit, from cut to fabric, pocket type to position. But you’ll be wisely advised, both because each tailor has a house style – not imposed but favored – and because that’s what tailors do: make an assessment of your lifestyle and needs and help you eliminate options and ideas and pinpoint what’s best.

Custom Bespoke Suits in NYC, NJ, & Anywhere In The U.S

At BBspoke, personal service is our specialty and we have many ways to serve you in NJ and NYC Area.  Our custom tuxedo, suit, and tailoring services go far beyond just the material itself.  

Our owner, Bijan Zamanian, is personally involved with every new client to make sure nothing is left to chance.  We will even come to your place at home or office in New Jersey or New York (Consultations by video outside of our NJ & NYC travel area).

Book an appointment online today. You’ll be fitted so that your new suit has the best look and feel you can buy.

How To Style a Tweed Jacket

Tweed can be intimidating. Yes, historically, it has been synonymous with Ivy League professors, Sherlock Holmes, and gun-toting English gentlemen. But today, it’s a smart and versatile staple that any man can and should incorporate into his wardrobe, especially during these bitterly cold winter months.

Whether you’re trying to understand how to wear a tweed jacket that’s been hiding in the back of your wardrobe for years or trying to work up the courage to pull the trigger on finally buying one, we’re here to help. Here are five different ways to style the timeless but on-trend tweed jacket.

What is Tweed?

Tweed is a type of woolen material. It originated in a fabric-producing region in Scotland, near the Tweed River, during the early 1800s. However, the river isn’t its namesake, as someone elsewhere misread its original spelling of “tweel weave” for “tweed weave”, assuming this false connection of names. Nonetheless, the name stuck and its popularity soared. 

In the production of tweed fabric, it is woven in intricate ways to create different, typically diagonal, patterns such as plain, twill, herringbone, and check. Plain may be the most frequently used pattern of tweed, but it is much more complex than it seems. While the plain pattern may just be one color, it is given depth in several ways. For instance, various shades of one color could be used in the weave. Also, different colors can be woven in one thread to build on the pattern. This goes to show the balance of complexity and simplicity of tweed, as the simple structure and color palette blend with the complex weaving and patterns. 

The colors and patterns have made this fabric a very popular choice for blazers and suits. However, it has also served as material for caps, gloves, trousers, and liners. Most commonly, the fabric is dyed with various combinations of earth-tone colors, like different shades of brown or blue. Though it can be rough and unfinished, it’s both wind and water-resistant. Hence, it isn’t surprising to learn that this was first designed for farmers and other outdoorsmen. Eventually, because of tweed’s durability, one of its most favored forms has become that of a sports jacket, perfect for enduring the elements when outside.

Tweed Color Combinations 

There are numerous ways to wear a tweed jacket, whether you want to be casual or dress up for a smart occasion. Below are our favorite options and combinations.

Gray

A grey tweed blazer paired with an elegant white dress shirt and a navy blue pocket square. This look is designed for daytime office wear, as well as for casual evening occasions. The colors of the blazer and the white shirt are subtle. However, adding the accessory of the bold midnight blue pocket square adds a small, smart flare to the ensemble that builds on its sophistication. Not too flashy, it creates a professional look that shows careful consideration in its assembly.

Blue

A blue tweed blazer paired with a blue shirt and beige chinos. This outfit is the perfect look for a lunch date or weekend occasion where you want to look dapper, but not “too dressy”. By choosing no accessories (tie, bow tie, or pocket square) and a linen shirt, this attire is stylish and ideal for casual business environments or dinners. The two different shades of blue between the shirt and blazer match perfectly well and create a nice contrast between the beige of the chinos. However, the contrast isn’t off-putting and adds to the look a more polished feel.

Brown

A brown tweed blazer paired with grey chinos and a classic blue shirt. This works for more casual-business environments and occasions. The brown blazer has a fine, warm color that isn’t too bold or flashy for an informal environment. However, the touch of blue from the blue oxford shirt pops a bit out from underneath the tweed, allowing the outfit to stand out just enough.

How The Modern Gentleman Wears Tweed 

Smart-casual

The two-button tailored tweed jacket was the definitive smart-casual choice long before the term ‘smart-casual’ was coined: worn with flannels and brogues or loafers, the jacket had an air of academia about it, with pockets stuffed with one’s daily necessities, collar turned against the wind. Think George Orwell, Woody Allen, Dr. Who, even Dirty Harry.

These days unstructured tweed jackets and coats – worn perhaps with chinos – look more contemporary, more at ease. Don’t stand on ceremony in tweed: like a pair of jeans, a tweed jacket is one of those garments that looks better the older and more battered it is.

Formal

A tweed suit may well last you a lifetime – and it will certainly pose a challenge to anyone also enjoying that central heating. But tweed is also one of those fabrics – akin to corduroy in some respects – that manages to look smart when properly tailored, but also relaxed at the same time. This is partly down to image, partly down to the tactility, density, and sheen of the cloths.

But play down the tweed suit’s in-built traditionalism by wearing it with knitwear – a charcoal roll-neck, for example – rather than shirt and tie. If you’re opting for the latter, stay clear of tattersall checked shirts and plaid ties.

The Guide to Suit Fabrics

finished jackets in tailoring atelier on hangers

With a plethora of different fabrics and patterns on the market, it’s easy to become spoiled for choice when buying a suit! However, the type of fabric is important when wearing a suit for a particular event or a particular time of the year. Therefore, this guide deals specifically with different types of suit fabrics and weaves. 

In this article, you will find out what defines a good suit fabric. You will also learn the key characteristics of the most popular types of suiting fabric. Finally, you will get clued into the controversy over synthetic suits.

Why Does Suit Fabric Matter?

There many details to consider when buying suit, but the two main factors that decide on a suit’s quality and cost: construction and fabric. This is the suiting equivalent to parts and labor on a car. Very quickly, suits are made with either fused, half, or full canvas interlinings onto which fabric is either glued (fused) or sewn. Glued suits are cheaper, sewn suits are more expensive.

Fabric is the other main factor that decides a suit’s quality and cost. Good fabric will feel better, hold its shape for longer, and look better for its lifespan. As you might imagine, it’s a more expensive product than its lower-quality counterparts.

Fabric Types

Cashmere

Cashmere is a kind of wool that comes from the soft under-hair of a particular kind of goat native to Mongolia. It has an incredibly soft texture, great water resistance, and excellent breathability. You can find cashmere suits in lighter or heavier weaves suitable for varying temperatures.

Cashmere can last many, many years with proper care. It also insulates even better than most sheep’s wool, making it an ideal material for cold-weather suits. Plus, it has a lustrous appearance and drapes elegantly for pants!

Cotton 

Plant fibers represent another category of fabrics a customer can choose from. Cotton is an accepted option for many casual suits, and is, in most cases, less expensive than wool or linen. It is flexible and breathable, but shows creases more than wool fabrics. Another classic plant fiber is linen, which is made from the fibers of the flax plant. While it is very breathable, it does develop a characteristic wrinkle

Silk

As a fiber, silk is elastic and has pretty good strength. However, it’s super-light and easy to wear. It has moderate resistance to wrinkles and it does not attract dirt because of its smoothness. Silk is a natural temperature regulator, which will keep you warm in winter and cool in summer. It’s perfect for all seasons and fits most body types; however, it’s best for more formal events.

It’s pretty rare to see a 100% silk suit nowadays. That sort of thing is generally limited to the like of Prince Charles while vacationing in the tropics. It’s more likely that you’ll see silk as part of a suit’s fabrication (60% worsted wool and 40% silk, for example). It is sometimes used in high-end suit linings, but this should only be done if the customer really loves a lining’s design, as synthetic silks like viscose are actually stronger than the original fabric.

Velvet

Velvet is another soft and luxurious fabric that can be made from both natural and synthetic fibers. Even the term velvet itself describes “soft and smooth” nowadays. The soft pile of velvet makes for a warm, comfortable winter jacket. Velvet has a bit of heft to it because of its thick pile, making it less suitable for hot weather wear.

Avoiding Synthetic Materials

While nearly all mass-market retailers sell various polyester suits, high-end brands generally don’t use this fabric because its affordability gives it an air of cheapness. Polyester is an affordable synthetic material basically made out of plastic. Low-quality polyester suits do look sort of shiny, giving them a cheap look.

the polyester suit issue is open for debate. If you want affordable suits, go for it! If you want a fancy brand and high-end quality, you’re going to need to dish out the dollars for an expensive all-natural material like wool. Our team tries to work withing your budget! 

New Jersey’s Choice for Quality Suit Fabrics 

Finding one suit that fits is hard enough, never mind finding a variety of suits in different fabrics. But with a quality Bespoke suit, our team can put together a custom-sized suit with a variety of colors and fabrics, in a breeze.

If you’re looking to spruce up your suit collection, and are in need of a quality suit, consider contacting us. At BBespoke, our reputation is based on an uncompromising dedication to craftsmanship and personal services.

5 Reasons To Avoid Buying Off-the-Rack

Even If you’re just a beginner to the world of menswear, you’ve definitely come across these terms at some point. Bespoke, off-the-rack. These may be words you’re unfamiliar with. Well, maybe not off-the-rack.

It’s safe to say that having at least one suit isn’t a luxury, but a necessity. Every person will find themself in a situation where they’re going to need a suit, no matter what line of work they’re in.

Triptych photo of a three pinstripe suits with shirt and ties.

But, it’s important to talk about practicality, too. Yes, there will be a situation eventually where you’ll need to wear a suit. In fact, you might need multiple suits depending on your profession. The latter scenario may prompt you to be even more price-conscious. After all, multiple suits don’t come cheap. You may be tempted to save some money by opting for off-the-rack suits.

Nothing can beat the look and fit of a bespoke suit. But, your wallet makes a pretty hard to ignore case. Here is why you’re doing yourself a disservice if you do end up opting for off-the-rack suits over custom suits.

What is an Off-The-Rack Suit?

Before we reveal why exactly off-the-rack suits are a poor choice, let’s first break down the definition of this term, as many people are likely hearing about it for the first time. An off-the-rack suit is exactly what it sounds like: a suit that’s sold as-is, right off the rack. They are produced in a range of standard sizes, designed to fit the majority of men. This makes off-the-rack suits a popular choice for retailers, simply because they don’t have to alter or otherwise customize them in any way, shape or form.

It’s important to note that most off-the-rack suits are not canvassed. Rather, they are fused with the interlining being glued to the shell using a high-heat process. This saves both time and money for the manufacturer, but at the cost of quality. Fusing typically results in a lack of support for the suit’s canvas structure, making them more susceptible to damage over time.

Lifetime value

A custom suit has the highest lifetime value. They are built to last for years as long as you take care of them. The cheaper, machine-sewn materials used in off-the-rack suits won’t have the same durability. Also, and we have to be honest, everyone tends to put on a little weight over the years. Don’t you want a suit that you can still wear after putting on a few extra pounds? An off-the-rack suit is basically done once it stops fitting right. A custom, a bespoke suit is tailored with this in mind. It fits perfectly now, yes, but there is also some excess material in the jacket that can be worked with in order to still provide a perfect fit if you put on another ten pounds or so. Custom suits fit you perfectly, not the 90% or so that many men will settle for. They are designed to hide the body’s irregularities. Have a bit of a paunch? Get your suit tailored around it. Have a shoulder visibly higher than the other? Your suit can be tailored to visually balance them.

It Will Cost You More in the Long Run

The upfront cost of an off-the-rack suit may appear lower than other suits, but you’ll probably end up spending more in the long run. There are two reasons for this, first and foremost off-the-rack suits are low quality, making them more susceptible to damage. Secondly, you’ll probably have to take your off-the-rack suit to a tailor so it fits better. This will cost you more money, negating the otherwise cost-savings benefits offered by this generic style of men’s suits.

Looking your best has tremendous value. It’s far beyond what might be saved buying an off-the-rack suit that you would still need to get altered to fit properly, anyway. A custom suit will last you and the craftsmanship involved will be obvious to discerning eyes. Do yourself a favor and invest in a custom suit.

 Custom Bespoke Suits in NYC, NJ, & Anywhere In The U.S

BBspoke personal service is our specialty and we have many ways to serve you in NJ and NYC Area.  Our custom tuxedo, suit and tailoring services go far beyond just the material itself.  Book an appointment online today. You’ll be fitted so that your new suit has the best look and feel you can buy.

How To Make a Great Impression With Your Suit Color

Whether you’re preparing for a job interview, having lunch with a new client, or going on a first date, first impressions matter. A key aspect of first impressions is the color you present to others through your clothing. But does clothing color really affect how you’re perceived by those you meet for the first time?

Color creates certain long-term subconscious cues in others as to how they should regard us. These impressions are impacted beyond the level of individual psychology to social psychology, where certain hues are associated with people that we have seen in powerful positions or in leadership contexts.

Be Bold

Mature professional Tailor taking measurements for sewing suit at tailors shop.

If you want to convey confidence and authority to those around you, it’s best to wear strong, vivid, and bold colors. This approach can be accomplished from multiple different angles.

You may choose to wear a solid yellow tie, for example, to demonstrate a confident and fun-loving demeanor. Or if you wish to convey bold authority, leaning towards darker colors would do the trick.

Be Approachable

Maybe the first impression you’re going for is a friendly and approachable vibe. You want a prospective employer, for example, to feel comfortable around you. You want them to know how friendly and easy-going you are.

Choosing a look with bold colors and zany patterns may not be the best choice in this case, as those may serve to be intimidating or off-putting to some. Instead, try wearing softer colors. Light, soft colors are often seen as more inviting and less in your face. Light greens, yellows, blues, and coral are some such colors with a friendlier appeal.

The Psychology Of Color

There have been countless studies led on the effect that color has on one’s mood and psychology. Each of them has proven various things about the power of color, but they all prove one thing: Color has a profound effect on human emotion and initial impressions.

Here is what each of four common suit, coat, or dress shirt colors says about you, in terms of the qualities or values they suggest:

Leadership – Black

Black is powerful and aggressive. It sends a message that you are a leader or have control. Black is a key color in the fashion world that is often associated with stylishness. Fashion writer Samantha Kemp suggests contrasting black with a bright tie or flash of color in a handkerchief. Black can be intimidating to those you meet, so be aware that it may not be easy for others to engage with you. However, you can use it to underscore your prominence and to appear debonair or glamorous. Style writer Antonio Centeno cautions that black is a better choice for those with darker hair and darker complexions. For someone with fairer features and lighter hair, black can be overpowering.

Teamwork – Blue

Blue conveys a sense that you have high self-esteem – that you believe in yourself. Research has shown that navy blue could ultimately be the strongest choice for a job-interview suit for this reason. Navy works well in an interview setting, says Kemp, because it comes across as professional and stable without having the dreariness that can be associated with black. When you walk into an important interview or event wearing a navy suit, you suggest important market values such as seriousness, diligence, and detail orientation.

Logic – Gray

When you wear gray, you convey a sense of independence. That tone of separation can be positive or negative, depending on how well you carry yourself when you wear it. Gray is the color of self-sufficiency and the ability to formulate thoughts and plans without external assistance. In fact, Kemp sees gray as tied with blue for the best possible suit color – adding that men and women will typically look better in darker and lighter shades, respectively. Centeno suggests that charcoal grey can help make someone look more experienced and mature.

Looking To Add New Suit Colors To Your Wardrobe?

Finding one suit that fits is hard enough, never mind finding a variety of suits in different colors. But with a quality Bespoke suit, our team can put together a custom-sized suit with a variety of colors and fabrics, in a breeze.

If you’re looking to spruce up your suit collection, and are in need of a quality suit, consider contacting us. At BBespoke, our reputation is based on an uncompromising dedication to craftsmanship and personal services.

Should You Buy A Bespoke Suit At A Young Age (13-16)?

A bespoke suit is a statement about yourself. It is tailored with your specific image, style, and body size in mind. It is designed to fit perfectly to match every curve and angle in your body and it’s a must-have in every professional wardrobe. But what about teens? Do they need to have a bespoke suit?

What Exactly Is A Bespoke Suit?

 A bespoke suit is a custom, hand-stitched suit that is made to be uniquely yours. It is not like a custom suit where you visit a tailor, get your measurements taken, and then revisit the tailor for a fitting or two until it is ready.

Blue suit with tie and handkerchief.

A bespoke suit will take much longer to complete and a lot more money to get perfect. When you first visit a bespoke tailor, over 30 different measurements will be taken with pinpoint accuracy to ensure that they have all the information on file for a perfect fit. You will then have to decide on the materials and style you want for the suit, which will also depend on your budget.

From that point, the tailor will get to work on the suit and you will be called in for multiple fittings, typically over 5 times, in order to check the fit on your body. This process can take anywhere between 3 weeks to 2 months until the suit is ready. 

You won’t see the average person wearing a bespoke suit for casual purposes. This is because of the amount of time and money that will need to be spent to get this suit fitted.

Can A Young Person Purchase A Bespoke Suit?

There is nothing stopping any person, young or old, from purchasing a bespoke suit. Anyone can visit their tailor and get a suit made if they have the finances for it. But, do teens really need a bespoke suit?

The two biggest factors we have to keep in mind for this question are the following:

  • The suit fit
  • Financing

The suit fit

Bespoke suits a tailored to fit your body like a glove. For this reason, it is always recommended that anyone looking to get one stitched should be in the body shape they want to be in before going ahead with the measurements. This is because any small change in your body change is going to make the suit uncomfortable and won’t look as good on you anymore.

Getting the suit refitted is a long and difficult process and will require more money and more time spent on it than is absolutely necessary for a suit. A bespoke suit is meant to last for over a decade. It uses the finest materials and the best stitching techniques to ensure that the person can keep that suit looking amazing for years to come.


The problem with young people tailoring a bespoke suit is that their bodies are still developing. Teenagers especially are quite prone to growth spurts and other changes. It is even possible for them to go in for measurements on the first day and then have different measurements when they go in for the final fitting.

This makes the tailoring process difficult as the tailor will have to adjust the suit constantly, and if the suit is made, that young person would be able to enjoy wearing the suit once or, if possible, twice. Having spent so much time and money on the suit, this seems like a big waste and they would be better off purchasing a normal custom suit for the time being.

Financing

Bespoke suits can cost two or three times as much as a custom suit. In general, a custom suit will cost upwards of $800, while a lower-tier bespoke suit can cost upwards of $2,800.

It’s safe to say that these suits are expensive. But, there is a reason for why it is so. Unlike custom suits which are machine-stitched, bespoke suits are done by hand and take considerably longer to stitch than a custom suit. Therefore, unless you have the money to throw around as a young adult, a bespoke suit is not a prudent financial decision.

If you have the money for it, then go ahead, there’s nothing stopping you. But keep in mind that the suit won’t last long if your teen is still growing – and it’s a huge investment to make for something that’s temporary. If you want to discuss suit options for teens, why not get in touch with our friendly team today and we’ll be happy to talk options with you.

5 Things You Should Know Before Buying A Custom Suit

Whether you’re a professional or a casual suit wearer, every wardrobe should contain a suit or two – both for everyday/office wear and a tailored suit for dressier events. For work, you could simply get a suit off the rack and it should serve its purpose. However, a bespoke suit tailored exactly to your size is a necessity to stand out from the crowd and to create a unique look specific to your style.

A bespoke suit is completely custom and handmade. It is not as simple as buying a suit from a store. You will have to go in for many fittings as the tailor will want to make it as perfect as possible for your body shape. In this regard, you can’t do better than a bespoke suit which has the power to increase your confidence just by wearing it.

Still Life of Tailor's Shop with Tools of the Trade and Cloth

Before you go in search of a custom suit, there are a few things you need to consider. Below, we will be highlighting some important information you need to know before you purchase a bespoke suit.

5 Things You Should Know

  1. Understand your budget – Custom suits are more expensive than your regular suits. Off-the-rack suits are mass-produced using machinery according to general body size and so the cost of tailoring the suit is much lower. A bespoke suit, on the other hand, is handcrafted meaning that one tailor or a group of them have worked on the measuring, stitching, lining, and padding of the suit. A lot more time and effort is spent on tailoring just one suit, and this is reflected in the price.

If you can determine the budget early on, the tailor will be able to tell you what kind of suit you can expect for that price. If not, you may be disappointed with the final result.

  1. Choose the best fabric – The fabric makes the suit. Your entire suit’s look and feel will be determined by the fabric you end up using. Therefore, it is important to make this decision before you start work on the suit. Any fabric that is synthetically made should be avoided as it won’t last very long and will not be as comfortable.

You should also factor in other conditions such as whether or not you sweat a lot. If you do, you need to choose a fabric that is light so the suit can breathe more easily such as cotton or linen. Wool is another all-around great choice that you can wear at any time, in any climate. If you live in an area that is cold, then you will need thicker materials such as flannel or tweed for comfort. For more insight, you can ask your tailor directly and get their recommendation based on your budget.

  1. Make sure you have the body you want before purchasing – Bespoke suits are made exactly according to your body size. Once it is completely tailored, it is a difficult process to alter again. Bespoke suits are tailored to fit you for years to come so you need to ensure that you’re in the shape you want to be before you visit the store.

If you’re in the process of losing weight, you should ideally wait until you have reached your target weight. Think of it this way, at the end of your fitness journey, you will have an expensive custom fit suit ready for you that will make you look dashing with all that lost weight.

  1. You will need to take precise measurements for every part of your body – Because of the process of bespoke tailoring, you should expect the body measurements process to take quite some time. It is also an opportunity for you to judge the competency of the tailor you have approached. If your tailor does a quick job of measuring with no real communication, you should probably get out of there and find another tailor.

Typically, a good tailor would take more than 30 different measurements including height, waist, inseam, sleeves, chest size, and more. You should also make sure your tailor is not rushing the job as any mistakes will take the tailoring process much longer.

  1. Understand that this is not a quick tailoring job – If you need a suit stitched quickly for an upcoming event, then you should probably not make it a bespoke suit. Unlike a normally stitched suit which can take about a week, a custom suit can take anywhere between 3 weeks to 2 months to complete. You will need to be patient to get that perfect fitting suit.

If you need further assistance or advice, get in touch with our team today!

Is A Bespoke Suit Made Entirely By Hand?

If you’re just joining the world of suits, you will have found out there is a lot to learn. Particularly when it comes to bespoke suits. One of the questions we’re asked by customers often is whether a bespoke suit is made entirely by hand. To help you understand the process a bit better, keep reading.

What Are Bespoke Suits?

Unlike a readymade suit, a bespoke suit is one that has been masterfully crafted to fit your exact body measurements. It is almost like your second skin because of how meticulously the suit will fit you. It is highly likely that no one else you know will be able to wear the suit the same way you do.

Mature tailor working with sewing pattern in atelier

A bespoke suit is such a big part of the suit universe due to the definition it stands by – unique, masterful, and handcrafted. This isn’t your run-of-the-mill factory woven suit that you can find at any suit store. You purchase a bespoke suit when you want to make a statement and have a suit that is made solely for you.

How Are Bespoke Suits Made?

Bespoke suits are expensive, but they’re expensive for a reason. It is because of how many man hours go into completing the suit as well as how much care is taken for every stitch made. A bespoke suit is almost fully crafted by hand with only minor tasks being handled by machines.

Hand-made parts of a bespoke suit

Almost every task of stitching a bespoke suit is done by hand. Let’s go through the whole process below:

  1. The selection of fabric and taking measurements (over 20 measurements to get the most accurate fit) is all done by hand and discussed with the head tailor. Recommendations will be provided to the client based on the requirements and budget.
  1. The exact amount of fabric required for all your garments will be cut from the same cloth to ensure that they all match. This fabric is then sent to the “cutter” who will analyze the measurements and photos provided to cut the initial foundation of the suit by hand.
  1. Once the fabric is cut, it will be sent back to the head tailor to stitch the suit to the exact measurements required for the client. This is also done by hand to ensure that there are no mistakes and that a high standard is maintained.
  1. The suit will then be transferred to the “finisher” who is responsible for adding the final touches to the suit such as the buttons and buttonholes. This is also done by hand to make sure there isn’t any stiffness or variations in button sizes.
  1. The client will be called in for a fitting at this point. Any alterations or changes that need to be made can be informed to the tailor. These fittings will happen quite often until the perfect suit is created at the end.

Machine-made parts of a bespoke suit

The machines are used only for tasks that cannot be improved by using hands. These are the menial tasks that won’t affect the final look of the suit.

  1. Long seams (i.e. jacket lining) are usually done by machines – They can provide a clean and efficient finish once the initial stitches are done by hand.
  1. Machine sewing for trouser legs – These can take a long time to do by hand and there are chances of mistakes. They can easily be done in a machine without sacrificing any quality because it is always a single long line.
  1. Pressing the suit – Once the initial stitching has been done on a suit, all the clothes are sent to be machine pressed to give it its final shape. This is done before your fittings and before the final product is handed over to you.

Why Do You Need So Many Fittings?

Bespoke suits are known for having multiple fittings before getting it right. This is because a perfect suit is not possible to achieve without testing out different measurements. Every fitting you go to will improve the fit of your suit until there are no more adjustments to be made. That is the true finality of a bespoke suit.

Why Is A Bespoke Suit A Better Option?

Bespoke suits stand for luxury, comfort, and long-term use. A well-maintained suit can last upwards of 20 years, and you won’t find a better fitting suit than one that is made especially for you.

While it is expensive, there are multiple benefits to getting one over a readymade suit which usually wouldn’t fit well on you. If budget isn’t a major factor, a bespoke suit would be the recommended choice for all men.

How Tight Should Suits Be?

How your suit fits you can make or break your overall look. Finding the perfect material, cut, and design will not matter as much unless you get that perfect fit for your body. Your age and body type should not be deterrents for getting a tailored fit. With the right, experienced tailor, you can get a suit that looks great on you and also feels comfortable to wear all day long.

How Tight Should A Suit Be?

The ideal fit is when your suit is able to show your full body silhouette in a sleek manner without any pulling or sagging visibly anywhere. This is the only way to get a comfortable suit that allows you to move freely while looking fantastic.

 tailor taking measurements of bespoke suit jacket on mannequin

When choosing a suit, here are a couple of pointers to keep in mind:

  1. When you button up your jacket, it should create an hourglass shape of your body. If you notice any pulling of the fabric or any loose fabric under your arms, it is not the right fit.
  1. When you sit down, your trousers’ fabric needs to remain smooth without any strain or bunching. If there are, you need a new set of pants stitched right away.

Signs That Your Suit Is Too Tight Or Loose

Let’s go through some of the main points you should be looking at when finding that perfect fit.

The Jacket

  • The button should fasten perfectly without any pulling or sagging of the material around it. When closed, the jacket should feel like a glove.
  • The bottom of the jacket should stay neatly in place with a short gap when buttoned. If it starts to pull away, then the jacket is too tight for you.
  • The jacket should not hang loosely on your body. If you feel any part of it sagging forwards, you will have to adjust it to fit your dimensions.

The Shoulders

  • The jacket sleeve needs to begin at the exact point where your shoulder ends. If the sleeve is too high, the jacket will be difficult to put on and will look small on you. If it is too low, the jacket will sag, giving you an overly large frame.
  • When the seam hangs over your shoulder, extra fabric will bunch up under your arms to the side of the jacket. This will again give you a wider frame.

The Collar

  • The jacket collar should sit perfectly along the lines of your shirt collar. It shouldn’t stand away from or press up against the shirt collar for the best look.
  • When the jacket is too large, there will be a gap between the shirt collar and jacket collar. This is quite visible to other people and does not show off a smart look.
  • When the collar is pressed up against you, you are bound to be uncomfortable wearing that jacket. Your shoulders, neck, and sides will be a little too tight and you won’t be able to wear that jacket comfortably for a long time.

The Length of the Jacket

  • Your height is the best measure to find the best jacket length. Typically, the best length is when the jacket ends around the middle of your crotch area.
  • Another way of checking is by the length of your hands. Stand straight in front of a mirror with your arms by your sides and see where the jacket ends. The best length is when it ends around the middle of your fingertip and wrist.

Why A Bespoke Suit Is The Better Choice

In order to get a suit “just right”, it needs to be tailored exactly to your body dimensions. Every person has a unique body type and you cannot get a perfect fit from a suit you get off the shelves. Those suits are created with generic body dimensions in mind and will fit perfectly for only a few choice people around the world.

Each section of the suit (jacket length, collar, pants, sleeve) will have to be custom-done to your exact measurements so that they all come together into one perfect ensemble. This is the only way to stitch a dashing suit that is the perfect fit for you. When you try on a well-fitted suit, you will definitely notice the difference in comfort and movement it offers you.

Once you try a bespoke suit, it can be difficult to go back to wearing a normal, everyday suit. Get in touch with our team today to discuss your requirements and we’ll work with you to create a suit that’s the perfect fit.