What Is a 3-Piece Suit? Here’s What You Should Know

A 3-piece suit is a traditional and sophisticated type of formal attire worn by men on various formal occasions such as weddings, business meetings, and events. The name “3-piece” refers to the three separate pieces that make up the suit – the jacket, trousers, and waistcoat.

History of the 3-Piece Suit

The history of the 3-piece suit can be traced back to the 19th century when it was commonly worn by wealthy men for formal events. It was during this time that the waistcoat became a permanent part of the formal suit, replacing the earlier style of just wearing a shirt and trousers. The waistcoat added an extra layer of warmth and formality to the suit, making it a must-have for any well-dressed gentleman.

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The Jacket

The jacket of a 3-piece suit is similar to a traditional suit jacket, with a few notable differences. Firstly, the jacket of a 3-piece suit is usually a little bit longer and more fitted, to help it stay in place when you sit down. Secondly, the jacket of a 3-piece suit often has an extra pocket, known as a “ticket pocket”, on the right side, which is useful for holding small items like tickets or a train pass.

The Trousers

The trousers of a 3-piece suit are typically made from the same material as the jacket, and they should be cut in a similar style. They should be a close fit, with a straight leg and a comfortable waistband.

The Waistcoat

The waistcoat is the most distinctive piece of a 3-piece suit, and it is also the most formal. A waistcoat is a short, waist-length garment that covers the torso and is fastened at the front. It typically has a low neckline and is made from the same material as the jacket and trousers.

The Benefits of a 3-Piece Suit

So, why wear a 3-piece suit over a traditional two-piece suit? The waistcoat has a few benefits that set it apart from its two-piece counterpart. Firstly, the waistcoat adds an extra layer of warmth, which can be particularly useful in cooler weather. Secondly, it provides an extra layer of formality, making it ideal for formal events. Thirdly, the waistcoat helps to create a more streamlined and put-together appearance, as it helps to hide any excess fabric that may bunch up around the waist when you wear a jacket and trousers alone.

When to Wear a 3-Piece Suit

As mentioned earlier, a 3-piece suit is the perfect choice for formal events. Weddings, business meetings, and black-tie events are all occasions where a 3-piece suit would be appropriate. However, it is important to note that a 3-piece suit is a more formal option than a traditional two-piece suit, and it may not be suitable for all events. If you are unsure whether a 3-piece suit is appropriate, it is best to err on the side of caution and choose a traditional two-piece suit instead.

How to Choose a 3-Piece Suit

When choosing a 3-piece suit, it is important to consider a few key factors to ensure that you get the best fit and style for your needs. Firstly, consider the material of the suit. A high-quality wool suit is a good option, as it is durable, comfortable, and breathable. Secondly, consider the color and pattern of the suit. A classic black or navy suit is always a safe option, but if you want to add a touch of personality, consider a subtle pattern like a pinstripe or check.

Custom Mens Suits In New Jersey

In conclusion, a 3-piece suit is a timeless and sophisticated outfit that every man should have in his wardrobe. From the jacket, waistcoat, and trousers, to the fabric and the fit, there are many factors to consider when buying a 3-piece suit. Understanding the basics of this traditional attire will help you make a well-informed decision and invest in a suit that will serve you well for years to come.

If you’re looking for a top-quality 3-piece suit, look no further than BBespoke Apparel. Our experienced clothier uses only the finest materials and the latest technology to create suits that are both stylish and comfortable. Whether you’re looking for a custom-made suit for a special occasion or a classic 3-piece suit for your everyday wear, we’ve got you covered. Contact us today to schedule a fitting and see for yourself why we’re the premier destination for men’s clothing.

How A Bespoke Suit Boosts a Man’s Confidence

A suit is one of the most important garments a man can own. It is versatile, timeless, and can be worn on a range of different occasions. However, not all suits are created equal. A custom bespoke suit is a piece of clothing that is made specifically for one individual, taking into account their unique measurements, posture, and personal style. A well-fitted bespoke suit can transform the way a man feels about himself, helping to boost his confidence and make a powerful impression. In this blog, we will explore why a custom bespoke suit is such a valuable investment for any man and how it can help to enhance his confidence.

What Is A Custom Bespoke Suit?

Stylish handsome young man wearing business suit
Bespoke Suits Boost Confidence!

A custom bespoke suit is a suit that is made to order, specifically tailored to a man’s body shape and personal preferences. Unlike off-the-rack suits, bespoke suits are made with the individual in mind, taking into account the client’s posture, body type, and style. The process of creating a bespoke suit is time-consuming, but the end result is a suit that fits like a glove, providing maximum comfort and confidence.

The Importance Of Fit

The fit of a suit is of utmost importance. A suit that is too tight or too loose will detract from the wearer’s appearance and can make him feel self-conscious. A custom bespoke suit, on the other hand, is designed to fit like a glove, providing maximum comfort and confidence. When a man feels comfortable in his suit, he is more likely to stand tall, making him look and feel more confident.

The Power of Personal Style

Another key aspect of a custom bespoke suit is that it allows the individual to express their personal style. When ordering a bespoke suit, the individual can choose from a range of fabrics, colors, and styles, ensuring that the final product is unique and reflects their individual taste. This can help to make the individual stand out from the crowd, allowing them to make a lasting impression. Furthermore, the knowledge that they are wearing a suit that has been specifically designed for them can help to increase their confidence, giving them the reassurance that they look their best.

The Confidence Boost

A well-fitted custom bespoke suit not only enhances a man’s appearance but also boosts his confidence. When a man wears a suit that fits well, he feels more comfortable, more in control, and more confident. A bespoke suit provides the wearer with a sense of pride, as it is a symbol of quality and craftsmanship. When a man feels confident in his suit, he is more likely to make a lasting impression, both professionally and personally.

Investment in Quality

A custom bespoke suit is an investment in quality. Unlike off-the-rack suits, bespoke suits are made from premium materials, ensuring longevity and durability. The investment in a bespoke suit is an investment in a man’s image, and the benefits extend far beyond the initial purchase. With proper care, a bespoke suit can last for years, providing the wearer with a timeless, stylish look that will never go out of fashion.

Conclusion

A custom bespoke suit is a powerful tool for boosting a man’s confidence. With its well-fitted design, personalized features, and investment in quality, a bespoke suit is a statement piece that can make a lasting impression. Whether it’s a job interview, a first date, or a meeting with clients, a custom bespoke suit is a must-have item for any man looking to make a statement and exude confidence. So why not invest in a custom bespoke suit today and see the difference it can make in your life?

How To Care For Your Custom Suit

A custom suit is a significant investment and with proper care, it can last for many years. Not only does it keep you looking sharp and professional, but it also speaks volumes about your personal style and attention to detail. In this blog, we’ll provide a comprehensive guide on how to care for your custom suit, including tips on cleaning, storage, and maintenance.

Cleaning Your Custom Suit

Regular cleaning is essential to keep your custom suit looking its best. It removes dirt, oil, and bacteria that can damage the fabric and cause it to deteriorate over time. Here are some tips for cleaning your custom suit:

Maintaining Your Suit Will Ensure Its Longevity

Read The Care Label

Before cleaning your custom suit, be sure to read the care label carefully. This will tell you if the suit is dry-cleaned only, machine washable, or if it requires special care.

Avoid Machine Washing

Machine washing can damage the fabric, shrink the suit, and cause the color to fade. If your custom suit is machine washable, make sure to use cold water and a gentle cycle.

Use A Professional Cleaner

For best results, have your custom suit professionally cleaned by a trusted dry cleaner. This will ensure that the fabric is treated gently and that the suit retains its shape.

Spot Clean When Necessary

If your custom suit becomes stained, try to remove the stain as soon as possible. Use a damp cloth and mild detergent to gently blot the stain. Avoid rubbing the fabric, as this can cause it to spread and become harder to remove.

Storage

Proper storage is crucial to keep your custom suit looking its best. Here are some tips for storing your custom suit:

Hang It Up

Hanging your custom suit on a sturdy hanger will help it retain its shape and prevent wrinkles. Use a wide, padded hanger to support the suit’s shoulders.

Keep It Covered

Cover your custom suit with a suit bag to protect it from dust, sunlight, and other environmental factors that can cause damage.

Store In A Cool, Dry Place

Avoid storing your custom suit in damp or humid places, as this can cause mold and mildew to grow. Instead, store it in a cool, dry place, such as a closet or wardrobe.

Maintenance

Regular maintenance is key to keeping your custom suit looking its best. Here are some tips for maintaining your custom suit:

Have It Tailored

If your custom suit becomes too loose or tight, have it professionally tailored. This will ensure that the suit fits you perfectly and that you look sharp and professional.

Rotate Your Suits

Avoid wearing the same custom suit every day, as this can cause the fabric to wear out more quickly. Instead, rotate your suits and give each one time to rest and recover.

Handle With Care

Be gentle when wearing and handling your custom suit. Avoid pulling or tugging on the fabric, as this can cause it to stretch or tear.

Conclusion

A custom suit is a significant investment, but with proper care, it can last for many years. Regular cleaning, storage, and maintenance are key to keeping your custom suit looking its best. By following these tips, you can ensure that your custom suit stays in top condition and that you look sharp and professional every time you wear it.

Why Every Man Needs a Tailor-made Suit

There are few items in a man’s wardrobe that are as timeless and classic as a tailored suit. Whether you’re attending a formal event or just need to look sharp for work, a well-fitting suit can make all the difference in your appearance and confidence. While off-the-rack suits can be convenient and budget-friendly, a tailor-made men’s suit offers a level of quality and fit that simply cannot be matched by mass-produced options. Here are a few reasons why you should consider investing in a tailor-made suit for your wardrobe.

Personalized Fit

One of the most significant advantages of a tailor-made suit is the ability to customize the fit to your specific body type.

Dapper man wearing a tailor-made suit.

Off-the-rack suits are made to fit a standard size, but every man’s body is different. This means that even if you find a suit that fits you well in one area, it may be too loose or too tight in other areas. A tailor-made suit allows you to have control over the fit of the jacket, pants, and vest, ensuring that every inch of the suit fits you like a glove.

Better Quality Materials

When you purchase a tailor-made suit, you have the opportunity to choose the materials and fabric that will be used. This allows you to select higher-quality materials that will last longer and look better over time. Off-the-rack suits often use cheaper, lower-quality materials in order to keep costs down. A tailor-made suit may cost more upfront, but the investment will pay off in the long run with a suit that looks and feels better and lasts longer.

Unique Style

Another advantage of a tailor-made suit is adding your personal touch and style to the design. With an off-the-rack suit, you’re limited to the styles and colors that are available at the store. With a tailor-made suit, you can choose the specific details and design elements that make the suit your own. This can include custom lapel styles, pocket styles, buttons, and more. You can even choose to add your own monogram or other personal touches to the suit.

Elevated Professionalism

In a business setting, first impressions are crucial. A tailor-made suit sends a message of professionalism and attention to detail. It shows that you care about your appearance and are willing to invest in quality clothing. Even if you don’t work in a formal business setting, a tailor-made suit can still give you a polished and sophisticated look that sets you apart from others.

Investment in Yourself

Finally, a tailor-made suit is an investment in yourself. It may cost more upfront than an off-the-rack suit, but the long-term benefits are worth it. A tailor-made suit will fit you perfectly, look better, and last longer than a mass-produced option. It’s an investment in your personal style and image, and it’s something that you can wear with pride for years to come.

In conclusion, a tailor-made men’s suit offers a level of quality, fit, and style that simply cannot be matched by off-the-rack options. While it may cost more upfront, the long-term benefits of a tailored suit make it a worthwhile investment. Whether you need a suit for formal events or just want to elevate your professional appearance, a tailor-made suit is a perfect choice.

Suit Button Rules Every Man Needs To Know

It might surprise you to learn that there are rules to follow when it comes to the buttons on your suit jacket. Most men do not adhere to these rules because they are unable to understand them, which is why they do not follow them.

Why are these rules important?

You may find that your jacket – depending on its style – can be fastened in a specific way, depending on how it is designed. The jacket will not drape properly if it is buttoned incorrectly. It is likely that your jacket will bunch up around your midsection, which will throw off the whole look of your outfit. Anyone in the know will be able to tell that you don’t know how to dress properly if you wear this outfit.

You need to know these men’s suit button rules if you want to dress like a stylish, distinguished man.

Why Does Buttoning Your Suit The Right Way Matter?

There are several reasons to care about how and when to button your suit jacket:

  • It sends a signal to the other person that you care about the details of the work. The vast majority of men who violate these rules do so because they don’t wear a suit on a regular basis. There are a few little rules that “those in the know” use to identify other men who are “in the know.”.
  • The majority of the times, this makes it easier for a man to look good wearing a suit. Standing, a suit that is buttoned cuts a much cleaner silhouette when compared to one that is not buttoned.
  • The buttons should be kept from popping off. Unbuttoning your shirt when seated allows you to sit more comfortably, prevents wrinkles, and prevents the buttons from popping as you sit down.
  • The assumption is that every suit comes with the bottom button fastened to the body, so there is no need to fasten it. It is common for modern manufacturers of suits to cut the fabric so that it does not drape properly when the bottom button on a jacket with two buttons or three buttons is pressed.

It is important to note that we are talking about SUITS in this case. There are usually the same buttons on a sports jacket as on a suit jacket, but the rules are much more relaxed since it is a more casual style of jacket.

When it comes to three-button jackets, your grandfather probably told you to button them sometimes, always, and never. For a two-button jacket – always, never. And for a one-button jacket – always.

Men’s Suit Button Rules – Single-Breasted Jackets

Single-breasted suit jackets have a single column of buttons and a narrow overlap at the front.

A typical jacket will have one, two, or three buttons on the front and a notch lapel on the back. The way in which you button the jacket depends on the number of buttons it has.

Because of its origins in traditional eveningwear designs, one-button suit jackets are often cut longer than other types of suits.

Keeping the button fastened maintains a balanced proportion.

The issue of deciding which button to fasten doesn’t exist due to only one buttonhole on the suit’s jacket.

These jackets should ALWAYS be buttoned when standing.

Buttoning Rules For Two-Button Suit Jackets

The traditional way to button a two-button jacket is to fasten the top button and leave the lower undone.

The top button on these jackets should ALWAYS be buttoned when standing.

Unbutton the jacket only when sitting down to avoid creases. Fasten it again as soon as you stand up from your seat.

NEVER button the bottom button.

Fastening the bottom button will make you look like you don’t know what you’re doing and add an extra ten pounds by the billowing illusion your jacket creates. You’re supposed to keep the bottom button undone because that’s how most men’s suits these days are cut.

If you fasten the bottom button, your suit is likely to fit more tightly around the hips. This causes the sides to flare out a little bit around your torso, throwing your silhouette out of proportion.

Buttoning Rules For Three-Button Suit Jackets

“Sometimes, always, never” refers to each of the three buttons.

When standing, it is optional to button the top, the middle always, and the bottom never.

  • Closing the top button on these jackets is OPTIONAL when standing.
  • The middle button on these jackets should ALWAYS be buttoned when standing.
  • You should NEVER fasten the bottom button.
  • Undo all buttons when seated.

You shouldn’t button many three-button suits on the top (called 2 1/2 suits), and the lower button is almost always in a position where it restricts movement. On some three-button jackets, the top button hides behind the lapel. If buttoning the top interferes with the lapel’s natural fold, it should be left unbuttoned (hence optional).

Two-Piece vs. Three-Piece Suits

While you probably know how to distinguish between a two-piece suit and a three-piece suit, do you really know what the differences between the two types of suits are?

Several rules govern each style, which you may be surprised to learn.

In spite of the fact that they may appear very similar at first glance, each has its own way of wearing them and its own appropriate places for you to wear them.

In the right setting, both of these will look very elegant and sophisticated.

What is a Two-Piece Suit?

The two-piece suit consists of only two pieces that make up this garment: the jacket and matching trousers that make up the suit jacket. There is no difference in fabric, print, or color between the top and bottom.

There is nothing more classic or traditional than a two-piece suit when it comes to everyday wear. Because it can be worn casually or formally, it is suitable for nearly any occasion. Additionally, it is very versatile as well.

With or without a tie, you can style it in a variety of ways, including traditional and unconventional ways. The only exception to this rule is when you are wearing this suit to a formal or black-tie event.

What is a Three-Piece Suit?

A three-piece suit is nearly identical to a two-piece suit, with a matching suit jacket and trousers. But there’s a bonus piece: the matching vest. You may call the vest a waistcoat, depending on where you’re from. The terms are interchangeable in this scenario.

The addition of the vest is a step up in formality. The vest is often made to match the rest of the suit. But in some garments, the vest looks different than the rest of the pieces. Even though a three-piece suit is a dressier version of a two-piece suit, it can be versatile, too. For example, you can convert this suit to a two-piece by leaving off the vest.

Two-Piece vs. Three-Piece Suit Differences

When it comes to deciding which suit you should wear or whether you should wear it, it can sometimes be confusing.

Due to the fact that the two garments are not equal, you need to understand all the differences between them so that you can make the right decision for you.

Here is a breakdown of some of the most notable differences between these two suits that you should be aware of.

As a result, you will be confident that you won’t make any fashion mistakes when you dress for your next special event.

Formality

In terms of formality, the three-piece suit is always considered to be the more formal of the two suits. With the addition of a vest or waistcoat, you will be able to create an outfit that is highly tailored and coordinated.

The fact that the vest is also included in this suit makes it more formal in terms of dress code since it creates a sense of being covered up, which makes it more formal in terms of dress code. In general, the more restrained and sober an outfit is, the dressier it seems to be.

The choice to wear a vest with a suit shows that you are a careful and tasteful dresser, as it demonstrates your attention to detail. In addition to having a vintage feel, it also has a feeling of elegance, evoking a sense of refinement.

Suit Fabric Options

In spite of the fact that both suits are available in high-quality fabrics, the two-piece suit has the advantage of more flexibility. Since a three-piece suit has a formal nature, it is not permitted to make use of any synthetic materials in its construction of it.

However, since the two-piece suit is a more casual garment, it can, of course, be made from a wider variety of fabrics due to the relaxed nature of the garment.

There is just no point in wearing a three-piece suit in summer since it is just too damn hot to wear that extra layer of clothing. In addition, that also means that you no longer have the option of wearing an entire set of summer fabrics with your two-piece suit. There are three types of suits that are excellent for summer events: cotton, linen, and seersucker suits.

Suit Style Limitations

While a three-piece suit may have a lot more pizazz, it also has many more limits as well.

While a two-piece suit can be styled in a variety of ways, a three-piece suit does not offer the same level of versatility.

When wearing a three-piece suit, there are a few definite no-nos. It is not a good idea to wear a tie bar when you are wearing a vest, for instance.

There is too much activity in the same area of your chest at the same time. Keep the area free of clutter by not clogging it up.

When wearing a vest, you should also avoid wearing a belt with it. The vest covers an extra layer around your waist, so you don’t need to pile on any more layers on top of it.

Do Bespoke Suits Take a Long Time To Make?

In the world of suits, there is a lot to learn if you are just starting out. Especially when it comes to bespoke suits. We’re often asked by customers whether a bespoke suit is made entirely by hand. Keep reading to learn more about the process.

Why Should You Consider Bespoke Suits?

Bespoke suits are handcrafted to fit your exact measurements, unlike readymade suits. The suit will fit you almost like a second skin because it is so meticulously tailored. There is a high probability that no one else you know will be able to wear the suit the same way you do.

Due to its definition – unique, masterful, and handcrafted – bespoke suits are a big part of the suit universe. You won’t find a factory-woven suit like this in any suit store. Buying a bespoke suit is the best way to make a statement and have a suit that is uniquely yours.

How Do Bespoke Suits Get Made?

There’s a reason why bespoke suits are expensive. Due to the amount of labor and care put into every stitch, the suit takes a long time to complete. Only minor tasks are handled by machines when crafting a bespoke suit.

A bespoke suit is almost entirely stitched by hand. Here’s how it works:

  1. To get the most accurate fit, over 20 measurements are taken by hand and discussed with the head tailor. Based on the client’s requirements and budget, recommendations will be provided.
  2. To ensure that all your garments will match, the exact amount of fabric required will be cut from the same cloth. By hand, the “cutter” will cut the initial foundation of the suit based on the measurements and photos provided.
  3. The fabric will be sent back to the head tailor for stitching to the exact measurements required by the client. Handwork ensures that there are no mistakes and that a high standard is maintained.
  4. The suit will then be given to the “finisher” who will add the final touches, such as buttons and buttonholes. To ensure the buttons are not stiff or different in size, this is also done by hand.
  5. At this point, the client will be called in for a fitting. It is possible to inform the tailor of any alterations or changes that need to be made. Several fittings will be required until the perfect suit is created.

Machine-Made Parts Of A Bespoke Suit

Machines are only used for tasks that cannot be improved by hand. The suit’s final look won’t be affected by these menial tasks.

  1. Machines can provide a clean and efficient finish once the initial stitches are done by hand for long seams (e.g. jacket lining).
  2. Machine sewing for trouser legs – These can take a long time to do by hand and there are chances of mistakes. They can easily be done in a machine without sacrificing any quality because it is always a single long line.
  3. To give a suit its final shape, all the clothes are machine pressed after the initial stitching has been completed. The final product is handed over to you before your fittings.

What Is the Purpose of Having So Many Fittings?

Getting a bespoke suit right requires multiple fittings. A perfect suit cannot be achieved without testing out different measurements. Every fitting will improve the fit of your suit until no further adjustments are needed. A bespoke suit is truly final.

What Makes A Bespoke Suit Better?

The bespoke suit represents luxury, comfort, and long-term use. The right suit can last upwards of 20 years, and you won’t find a better-fitting suit than one made especially for you.

Although it is expensive, it has multiple advantages over readymade suits that don’t fit well. All men should consider a bespoke suit if budget is not a major factor.

5 Menswear Pocket Types

One of the things that a gentleman eventually notices and appreciates when wearing tailored clothes is just how many pockets a suit or sports coat has.

Pockets, whether on a jacket or other article of clothing, are a key but often overlooked practical feature in clothing. In this article, we will explore the range of pockets that appear in classic menswear, whether they are more common, such as jetted, flap, or patch, but also more obscure—ever heard of coin pockets, welted pockets, or ticket pockets? Or even better, the frogmouth pocket? Once you are done with this complete guide you know all of them!

Jacket Pockets

Though pants pockets are more widely used, when it comes to talking pockets in menswear, suit jackets and sports coats get most of the attention. Mostly because of their exciting variety. In a nutshell, there are three main forms of external pockets on jackets in order of increasing formality: patch, flap, and jetted.

1. Patch Pockets

The patch pocket is in a sense the most “primitive” as its construction is also the most basic: a patch made of the same material as the jacket itself is simply stitched onto the surface. It is the least hidden of the pocket types, as it, as well as the contents it contains, rests above the garment surface; in this way, it has something in common with early external pouches. The patch pocket is seen as casual because its construction is highly visible, so it appears primarily on sports coats. If it appears on a suit, the suit is immediately rendered casual rather than appropriate for business wear; on the other hand, you could also likely split the suit and wear the top as an odd jacket.

Because they are spacious and have a wide opening at the top, patch pockets invite you to stick your hands in them for casual loafing. They also invite you to toss things into them; however, if patch pockets are laden with heavy items, even keys or a large mobile phone, they can sag, creating a sloppy appearance and permanently warping their appearance, even when they are empty. Pressing the pocket with iron can help with this, but the best approach is prevention: use these pockets only for light items.

2. Flap Pockets

Next in formality is the flap pocket. This differs from the patch pocket because the pouch exists beneath the surface of the jacket and is covered with a flap made from the same material as the jacket itself. This was originally supposed to keep debris from getting into jacket pockets when worn in the country. Flap pockets occupy a sort of middle ground in terms of formality: they are the main choice for business suits, but they can also appear on sports coats as a testament to their casual origins.

3. Jetted Pockets

Sometimes, men will comment that they prefer to leave the flaps on their pockets tucked in, and, actually, flap pockets were originally intended to be worn this way; the flaps were only taken out if they were necessary to keep rain or debris from getting in. Essentially, a tucked-in flap creates impromptu jetted pockets for a cleaner, more polished silhouette. These are the most formal pocket style, appearing on evening wear and formal morning dress alike, though they can also appear on suits and even on sports coats. Their appropriateness for formal clothing, however, lies in their streamlined appearance, since all you see of the pocket is a slit. Jetted pockets are also referred to as besom pockets or welted pockets; the term “welted” refers to the reinforced edges (welts) of the slit, which are partially decorative and partially practical support.

4. The Ticket Pocket

Usually, the discussion of jacket pockets–and of menswear pockets in general–ends here. However, this omits a great number of others that are present on jackets. The ticket pocket, for example, is a third pocket that appears on the lower quarters of a jacket, above the main right pocket. This is because the wearer is assumed by default to be right-handed and would reach into it with his dominant hand. Lefties have to go bespoke or made to measure for the same convenience. 

The ticket pocket is most commonly flapped and slightly smaller than the pocket below it, though jetted versions exist. The name hints at its original purpose as a feature for train travel: a gentleman traveling to the country would carry his ticket in it, which is also why it technically should be a feature on British country-style jackets, such as tweeds, rather than those intended to be worn for business. When it appears on three-button hacking jackets, the ticket pocket, and indeed, all the flap pockets, may be cut on an upward sloping diagonal; this makes it easier to access the pockets while on horseback, further reinforcing their country associations.

5. Inside Pockets

The most useful pockets on a tailored jacket are the inner ones, though they aren’t often discussed. They may not be a sexy topic, but it’s worth “looking under the hood” at the inside pockets as part of your off-the-rack purchasing decision. Most sport coats and suit jackets will only have two, one on each side. This is enough to carry a coat or breast wallet on one side (the left side if you’re right-handed) and your phone on the other. 

You don’t necessarily want to add many more things on the right side due to the bulk; this is especially important since the wallet goes on the same side where there is already a pocket square. Popular options for additional ”everyday carry” in the other pocket are a cell phone, a small notebook and pen for notes, lists and ruminations, or even a flask of booze. If you’re lucky enough to have additional pockets, you can use them for other things, like your vehicle key fob, mints, a cigar, or the aforementioned notepad.

All You Need to Know About Custom Lapels

Close-up of a groom in blue wedding dress

Sometimes when we experience something magnificent, it is difficult to return to the old way of doing things. When we become accustomed to drinking good wine, it seems meaningless to drink cheap tasting wine. When we experience a job that gives us the freedom to create at will and brings us fulfillment, it is difficult to change to a job that lacks these aspects. In the same way, after we experience being dressed by a bespoke tailor, it feels disappointing to return to a ready-to-wear wardrobe.

Considering that a bespoke suit is able to serve a person for a lifetime (and may even be re-tailored and passed down to someone else), we notice that most people who opt for the bespoke tailored suit do not seem interested in returning to the world of ready-to-wear suits, and it becomes clear that one bespoke-tailored suit can be valued more by its owner, than four or five of ready-to-wear suits.

What is it about the bespoke tailored suit that spoils our taste for all the others?  Of course, the answer is a long list of impressive reasons ranging from the subtle but precise shoulder construction to a smooth back with no gape at the collar, to the ineffably charming ragged-at-the-back buttonholes, to working horn-buttons on the cuff, to those magical floating canvasses. Yet, one of the foremost indicators to the eye that signals a bespoke suit is the lapel roll.

The Lapel Roll

Lapel Roll: The fall and curl of the lapel downwards from the break (fold) of the collar to the designated button.  The term ‘roll’ applies to a softer lapel finish.

Components Of The Lapel Roll

The main components of the lapel roll include the belly and the roll line. We also notice the result of the “hollow” on a finished lapel.

The Belly

The belly describes the lowest part of the turn of the lapel curve as seen below. Some tailors believe that a lot of belly is required to give the lapels the desired degree of upward angle.

The 3 roll 2 is a favorite among gentlemen of substantial height (as a gentleman who is not tall should avoid too many buttons and pockets on a coat in order to avoid breaking the continuous vertical line of the suit) mainly for the reason that the third button plays a part in assisting the tailor to shape an elegant lapel belly roll. Such a roll is a clear signal of a hand-stitched lapel, for no machine-made or fused lapel is able to exhibit roll with this button in place.

The Roll Line

The roll line is the imaginary line measured from the point that the lapel begins (collar section) to the point where the lapel ends (button area).

The Hollow

The hollow of the lapel refers to the depth of the area underneath the fold curve.

The depth of the hollow of the lapel is a matter of personal taste and may vary according to the method of construction preferred by the customer and/or tailor.

Care Of The Rolled Lapel

As it is preferred that the tailor will provide cleaning and care of your custom suits, at times this option is not available. It is not uncommon for suit owners to be mortified to find that some dry cleaners have pressed custom lapels on coats “flat”,  after they come off the commercial press, literally obliterating the roll. If your tailor cannot care for your suit and you opt for a cleaning service, it is best to find a professional cleaner that provides a “sponge & press” service, which requires hand-pressing the garment according to its original shape. But, to play it safe, maintain your lapel roll at home.

Let’s Get Started

Bespoke is personal service by definition.  True customization is personal.  At BBespoke, personal service is our specialty and we have many ways to serve you in NJ and NYC areas.  Our custom tuxedo, suit and tailoring services go far beyond just the material itself. 

Questions? Please contact us and discuss your vision, your event, and your needs today.

What To Wear To A Formal Event

Formal attire is an outfit that matches a certain dress code’s needs, appropriate for a particular formal occasion.

The dress code will usually be stated on the invite. Each event will have different dress code expectations. What people wear to an event helps shape its atmosphere and decorum.

Understanding what to wear for each type of event can be daunting. This guide will explain each dress code and the perfect garments to wear for each.

Understanding the Formal Attire Terms

Highly formal events such as white-tie and black-tie have specific dress code rules and details you should follow.

These dress codes have 200 years of history, so it’s important to respect them to make a good impression.

Some invites may state “black tie optional”. The word optional can be ominous because it suggests inclusivity but may neglect the host’s actual expectations or recurring guests.

Business formal dress codes are more relaxed than black-tie codes; you have more freedom to play with different colors and patterns.

In case you’ve received an invitation, and it only states that you need to wear formal attire, your best option is to wear your tuxedo. Plan B is to wear a suit appropriate for all formal events.

It’s always better to be dressed up than underdressed. The same rule of thumb applies when no dress code is suggested at all.

White Tie Formal Attire

Just in case you become famous or presidential, you should know how to dress for a prestigious white tie evening. White tie dress codes are used for state dinners, galas, charity balls, and elite evening weddings.

It’s definitely the most formal attire of Western culture. Also called a full evening dress, a white tie dress suit is the epitome of formality. It abides by strict rules and is reserved for the most notable evening events.

A hand-tied white bow tie and evening tailcoat are the main pieces you’ll need for a white tie evening. In addition, your pants should be high-waisted with a build-in adjuster and two lines of decorative braid or satin piping down each leg.

You should wear a white stiff-fronted cotton tuxedo shirt with a pique bib. This shirt should have a soft detachable wingtip collar, French cuffs, and decorative studs. Finally, put on your cufflinks, and you are almost “white tie” ready.

The next step is either putting on your white waistcoat or pleated cummerbund under your tailcoat.

If you choose to wear a cummerbund, ensure that the pleats are facing upward. Also, hook your cummerbund into your pants to stay in place while you dance the night away.

The best shoes to pair with this ensemble are capless, patent leather oxfords or opera pumps with a grosgrain bow. Silk calf-high socks are mandatory, too.

White tie accessories to consider are a top hat, key chain, white gloves, or a white and black opera scarf. I think you’ll go for the scarf.

Black-Tie Formal Attire

Black-tie is your opportunity to dress like 007. The black-tie attire applies to formal evening weddings, business award ceremonies, and exclusive private dinners.

Tuxedos and black bow ties are the hallmark staple of black-tie events. You can either wear a black or midnight blue tuxedo.

In fact, dark blue tuxedos were originally worn to black-tie events as they appear equally dark under artificial lighting.

Tuxedo Jacket

Your dinner jacket should have shawl lapels. Your lapels and the inside of your jacket should have shiny satin facings.

Tuxedos usually have a single-breasted jacket, but a double-breasted jacket is also appropriate. The tuxedo jacket should only have one silk button. Four silk surgeon buttons will decorate the cuffs of your tuxedo jacket.

Your tuxedo jacket should not have vents. It gives a cleaner and sharper appearance. Also, you should avoid tuxedo jackets with flap pockets or notched lapels, as these features compromise the formality of your suit.

Straight jetted pockets will lend a cleaner aesthetic to your suit. You can either wear a black waistcoat or a cummerbund under your jacket, but never both.

Tuxedo Shirt and Cufflinks

A tuxedo shirt is a white cotton shirt with a twill weave.

The center strip of your dress shirt can be minimalistic, showing no studs (fly front placket). But you can also choose a plain placket that will show your decorative studs.

The third option is to choose a tuxedo shirt with pleats on each side of your placket with visible decorative studs. The front placket will add some extra detailing to your plain white shirt. 

You can choose French cuffs, barrel cuffs, or convertible cuffs for your tuxedo shirt. Don’t forget to close your cuffs with an elegant black or silver cufflinks set.

Make sure that your dress watch matches your cufflinks. Wear a silver watch, or even better, a watch with a black leather strap.

Tuxedo Pants

Your pants should be high-waisted with a single line of decorative satin or braid piping down the leg.

Tuxedo pants should have a slight break when meeting the top of the shoe. Tailoring your pants will ensure they don’t hang on the floor or bunch up at your ankles in an unflattering way.

Shoes

You can either wear black patent leather lace-up oxfords or opera pumps for a black-tie event. Alternatively, you can wear a pair of black capless leather shoes that aren’t necessarily lace-up oxfords.

Lace-up oxfords have leather soles which makes them fantastic for dancing. They are lightweight and don’t stick to the floor as much as rubber soles do. Wear black calf-high socks with your shoes.