How To Tell If A Suit Is Well-Made, Quickly?

Relying on the brand name when buying a suit is not enough to get you the best-fitting suit. What’s important is that you are aware of the things that make a good quality suit. Like most products, the more details and hard work going into the suit make it more valuable, and hence, more expensive.

As a result, the quality is better. You truly get what you pay for when you purchase a well-made suit. The following are simple things to look out for when you’re buying a suit to ensure its quality.

The Stitching

A tailor-made suit or a bespoke suit is fully constructed via hand. On the other hand, jackets from the factory line are either partially or fully stitched by machines. One simple way to check for the stitching is to pay attention to the chest area.

custom made clothing

A fully handmade suit will have a curvature leading into the chest. A machine-made suit would not have similar features and will be of lower quality. Having a curved part around the middle of the suit ensures that the jacket you’re wearing will present the perfect outline of your body.


Higher quality suits are separated from lower ones by their construction or the amount of canvassing. You’ll want to go for half-canvassed or fully canvassed suits for the best quality. Fused suits are generally not as comfortable.

The chest region of the jacket is made of three layers, which include:

  • The fabric of the outside
  • The inner lining of the coat
  • The canvas layer between the two linings

The canvas in the center determines how well-constructed your suit is. A half or full canvassed suit will have good shape and strength and will seemingly shape itself to your body. The canvas is usually made from horse or camel hair which makes it more expensive. A half-canvassed suit is the best way to go if you’re looking for the most cost-effective solution.

The Pinch Test

You don’t need to be a fashion expert to tell if a suit is canvassed or fused. Simply pinch the fabric near the chest. If you feel three separate layers, then the suit is canvassed. Having two layers means that the suit is fused. To tell between the two kinds of canvassing, pinch near the buttons.

The Inner Lining

Since they are not directly visible, cheap suits tend to compromise the inner lining most of the time. Using polyester or other kinds of man-made blends prevents the lining from being breathable. Having only breathable outer surface conflicts with having a poorly constructed inner lining since it will be in contact more closely.

Ask for natural fibers like Rayon or Cupra for the best results. Steer clear of fibers that have high amounts of acetate or polyester in them. Silk isn’t a good option either since it can tear easily from being in contact with your shirt.


Ensuring that the outer lining is made of pure wool is crucial in knowing that the suit you’re buying is of the right quality. If a pure wool suit has just been dry cleaned, it will not have a shiny look or press marks since wool is heat resistant.

Pure wool will make for a breathable and comfortable jacket that you can wear during summer and spring. On the other hand, blended fabrics are not that breathable. However, they have a shiny look that many desire from modern suits. These suits are also more prone to damage during dry cleaning.

The Fit

Saving the best for last, the fit of a suit can make or break the purchase. A good quality suit is made to fit your body alone. An experienced tailor can make the coat feel like a second skin to you by measuring your body’s nuances in multiple fittings. Cheap suits don’t offer you that luxury since they don’t require intensive labor.

Here are a few points to ensure that you have the right fitting suit:

  • The shoulders should not have any overhanging parts.
  • Insert your hand into the jacket with the buttons on. It should fit snugly without too much room.
  • The hemline should only cover the trouser pockets
  • The sleeve should finish where the thumb bone meets the wrist
  • The best-fitting jackets should give your torso a V-taper.

A suit that checks all or most of the categories mentioned in this article can be considered a good quality suit. While it doesn’t take much time to examine the jackets carefully, you now know what to look out for.